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Routes in Cactus Cliff

Affluenza S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Afterburner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Agave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alexi's Climb S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alignment, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost French S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Almost Gothic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Amiga S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Are You Experiential? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Axis of Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Banana Split S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed Wire Love S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beach Ball S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beef Cake Formula S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bionic Minnow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Slabbeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blackman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blade Runner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blarney Stone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blond Princes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bombodido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bur-Har-Bur S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cactus Cliff Addict S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candy for Big Kids S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cellulite District T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centurion Enigma S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Cheeseburger In Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Child's Play S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chompin' at the Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Christmas Tree S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chunky Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cobra S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Commitment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Crimpson Candy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Critic's Choice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cro-Magnum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crynoid Corner S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cure For The Common Crimp S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Da Fly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dances with Cholla S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dereliction Affliction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dihedrus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Divinity School S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Bird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escalando S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Et Tu, Brutus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fantasia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fast Food Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fiscal Cliff S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fishisms T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of the Phoenix S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
French Are Here, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fully Equipped S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Funkdemental S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gabby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Babies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glue Slippage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Red Road, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gravitations S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Expectations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Trigger S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Half Breed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hero Driver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Heeled Tittty Twister S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hot Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hurricane Hinzi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I Claudius S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I Lean S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm Having A Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Ian's Climb S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Illegal Smile S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impulsive Hands S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Institutional Meat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jamuary S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joy of Cholla, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jumpin' the Gun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Thesenga It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kalahari Sidewinder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer Toupee, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Louie's Traverse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kipu Pawkets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kodachrome S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Temperatura de Shelf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
LaCholla Jackson S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lats Don't Have Feelings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Legend on the Fall S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leisure Class S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manly Bulges S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Midget Toss S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Misalignment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning Joe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Fred T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Muscle Beach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
New Ethics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New World Order S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ol' 47 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oscar de la Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out There Take Anything S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Part Muffalo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pick Pocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Politically Incorrect S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poquito Mas S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puff Daddy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quarterback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quasi Quasar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Reach Around, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Eclipse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Giant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Relampago S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Risky Business S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shelf Pride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Man's Burden S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Six More Bottles of Bosco S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slicer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Eclipse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Belle S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spray Lord S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze the Moment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stand, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Suka S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Sam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Third Stage S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Three-Quarter Ton S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thumbs Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tits Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Recount S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turkey's Bleak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two For One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under A Blood Red Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Usual Suspects, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Utter To A Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wadsworth Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Punks on Pockets S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiteman's Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
World Peace S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1987
Page Views: 11,690 total, 59/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

At just about the mid-point of Cactus Cliff is a red wall with two lines that nearly converge. The left is Lats and the right is Blood Red Wall. For Lats, fire up pockets and edges just left of a block that starts Blood Red. Chase a seam with pockets for an additional half dozen clips. It is very continuous 5.11 climbing with no terrifically specific crux that ticks in at 5.11d. Excellent stone.

N.B. Some of the old maps have misnamed Lats, so check the source. In the old versions, Blood Red was sometimes called Lats, however, Lats starts left of the block.

Protection

Eight bolts.
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
So good! Look out for wasps in the summer! Keep it going through the last two clips! I always stare at this climb on the way over to Cactus Cliff. Nov 19, 2017
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
Absolutely stellar route. Several 11+ cruxes with still 5.11 movement between. Bolt placement was much, much spicier than anything else we did at Shelf. Reminded me of the New. Do not blow the fifth clip. Mar 23, 2014
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Such a fun route! As mentioned, I didn't find any moves harder than 11c...just the fact that they're stacked back to back makes it more difficult. You definitely need the endurance for a solid redpoint. Go have fun! Dec 2, 2013
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
 
First 11d onsight! This route seems to favor balancy climbers. Thin feet and committing crimps make this route a Shelf Road classic. Beautiful line. Feb 14, 2013
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
5th and 4th bolts have been replaced. (While the 5th was the one with the rock blown out around it, after seeing how rusted it looked, I went ahead and replaced the 4th as well....)
Big thanks to ASCA for the hardware!! Jan 22, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is dope! Mega classic and top 10 routes at Shelf. Be prepared to wait in line.... Jan 11, 2012
kzittle
Boulder, CO
 
kzittle   Boulder, CO
 
Awesome route! My first 11+ route and loved it. Almost got the onsight, but the pump got the best of me going from the final bolt to the anchors. Excellent. May 10, 2011
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
5.11c
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
5.11c
Super awesome route. If you don't have endurance, this will get pretty pumpy. Jan 30, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Lats don't have feelings afterall. Not a lats type of climb. Forearms, however, do have feelings and mine had some griping to do about trying this at the end of a cold day.
Nice climbing, but I can't give 4 stars to it. Dec 30, 2010
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Thanks, Monty. It looks like you moved the replacement bolt a little lower, so hopefully it'll ease the sketchiness of the clip. Jan 3, 2010
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.11c/d
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.11c/d
Thanks, Monty! Jan 3, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Replaced the 3rd bolt on New Year's Eve at night; new year, new hardware. The 3rd bolt was looking a little sketch especially for that soft stone.

The 5th bolt, yes the one that you clip before the "run-out" looks very similar to how the 3rd looked (not as bad), didn't know that when I was there that night. It's on my to do list. Jan 2, 2010
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
For me, the 3rd clip (currently 5th clip) was ALWAYS the crux of the route. If the bolt was a foot lower you could clip it from good holds and the best stance. Definitely be careful, as I had a partner blow the clip and come really close to getting busted up on the ledgy terrain below. Oct 19, 2009
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
Is it just me or does the third clip risk a pretty serious ledge fall if you blow it? Maybe the terrain is easy there? Broken ankles suck. Oct 19, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.11c/d
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.11c/d
Hopefully someone with the knowledge to do it properly (I don't) can go up there soon and replace the bad bolts. As someone else said, this climb is too aesthetic, too classic to have bad gear on it.... May 25, 2009
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11+
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11+
Agree about the 3rd clip. I remember being kinda sketched out moving above it because the climbing is sorta tricky there. Apr 16, 2009
A heads up.... The 3rd bolt and the 5th bolt are pretty bad, particularly the 3rd. From below, you can see a cm or so of the bolt sleeve. If the 3rd pulls (seems like it will sometime soon), decking will happen. If someone has the expertise and equipment, I would be happy to help. Too good a climb to have such shoddy gear on.
Looks like a same hole replacement will not work. The hole is eroded and flared on the bottom side. Apr 16, 2009
In the picture topo it shows a additional route going left after the first few bolts and it is called "I Have a Vision" is this corect? I there a reason this marvelous route isn't submitted? Sep 15, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.11d
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.11d
New hangers are a start. More bolts might be okay but are not what this route really needs. Since the route has new hangers now, it is even more important to get rid of the old bolts. When the nuts were unsecrewed to put on the new hangers, the old bolts were likley weakened!! I've broken off several 3/8" wedge-bolts while trying to unscrew them with a short wrench.

It's not so hard to do it right at Shelf, thanks to the soft rock. I did a same-hole replacement of the first bolt on Arnold-Arnold years ago. Here is what worked for me. First, I drilled along the top-side of the old bolt with a 3/16" drill bit. Then, tapping the old bolt toward the new void, got it loose enough to pull easy, no crow-barring. Finally, I redrilled the hole to 1/2" and put in a 1/2" x 3" Rawl.

If the hole seems too wide, it is possible to use a 1/2" by 5 & 3/4" Rawl bolt. See my picture of the special bit needed for these long bolts. Flared holes have not been a problem for me at Shelf, but it's good to be ready.

I've been waiting for years for someone else to do the fix. Not the FA guys, they've done a lot for climbers. I've got a borrowed drill and lots the proper hardware, thanks to Kirk Miller. If I get motivated, then I'll update this page. Dec 29, 2007
willem  
This climb has been retrobolted. The manky old cold shuts have been replaced with new hangers, and I believe two new bolts got added. Not sure why there is one about three feet from the anchors though.... Jun 6, 2004
In the immortal words of Hiditaki Sizuki...."First time I climb not so good....second time Onsight Frrrrrash" Dec 15, 2003
I don't know why this has lats in the name. Forearm pump I felt, but it's vertical, so lats, not so much. It's also a really fun 11c-ish route. I also didn't think it was too run out, either. the holds are big thru there, and you won't hit anything if you fall.

Re: above comment...how can it be an onsight on your second burn? Did you keep your eyes closed for the first? Dec 15, 2003
richard magill
  5.11d
richard magill  
  5.11d
Classic! I did this again last weekend and I still think it is one of the nicest 5.11 sport climbs in the front range. Great stone, great continuity, and a building forearm pump the whole way! Dec 2, 2002
*** don't think i've ever seen my lats explode through my skin before*** a must do!!! one of my favorites in the valley... just keep thinking "there's a rest soon i know it" but dont count on it...move fast!!. Nov 6, 2002
Climb is very continuous with a good jug a little above the mid point to take some of the edge off of your lactic burn. There is also a deep mono that you can shake out on. This route deserves 3 stars and is a must do for the grade. Nothing on the route is harder than 11c but the endurance test is what makes it really fun! Jun 1, 2002