Type: Sport
FA: Jeff Bates & Rick Thompson, 1998
Page Views: 2,608 total · 13/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


115 Opinions

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Description

This climb is listed as a 10b in the guidebook, but 95% of the climb felt like easy 5.9. This is wonderful route that should not be missed. There are some huge holds on this climb. The crux is probably clipping the anchors. They are in an awkward position above a small roof. If the anchors were below the roof the climb, this climb would a three star 5.9. Enjoy....

Protection

6-7 bolts.

Photos

I agree with the 5.9 part but I would say 9+. A fantastic jug haul warm-up but I had no problems at the anchors and I'm 6" shorter then Guy. A fun, moderate, must do, 3 star route no matter what you grade it! Apr 9, 2002
[It's] getting slippery. Apr 13, 2003
David Danforth
California/Colorado
David Danforth   California/Colorado
What do you mean by slippery? May 21, 2003
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
Immediately to the left there is a bolted line with "Anguish and Fear 5.10a" painted at the base. It's pretty similar. Both seem to have a lot of dust on the holds (slippery?). Mar 4, 2007
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
I've done this route a couple times, and I always forget how fun it is. Definitely worth doing. Apr 25, 2007
Cam Reade  
 
Fun 5.9 until the anchor. Clipping the anchor is the 10b part of this climb. Mar 22, 2008
Hans Hoffman
D'iberville, MS
  5.10a
Hans Hoffman   D'iberville, MS
  5.10a
I second what Cam Reade said. Also, it's a pretty fun route considering the diversity (foot ledge right before all the huecos, the small crack at the top, and the awkward anchors). My first .10b lead. Nov 8, 2010
Sol Putman
  5.10-
Sol Putman  
  5.10-
Fun route, gets climbed a lot, so all the moves are in plain sight, gets a little pumpy towards the top if you're not in good shape. Crux is def' the anchor clip. Jun 13, 2011
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Not quite as fun as the neighboring 10 to the left but still a good route. Very fun moderate! Feb 27, 2014
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
FA: Jeff Bates & Rick Thompson, 1998. Jan 20, 2015
Ben.Foster Foster
West Bend, WI
 
Ben.Foster Foster   West Bend, WI
 
Super fun and somewhat unique climb. One of my favorite routes at Shelf. Nov 4, 2015
Steven Bogacz
  5.10a/b
Steven Bogacz  
  5.10a/b
This is such a fun route. A very easy start on the flake to gain the first couple of bolts and then slightly overhung climbing on fantastic holds. Clipping the anchors can feel a little squirrely, but take advantage of the crack and ledge just below them to get a little freshness back in your forearms before going for the top! Oct 10, 2016
Josef Lovin
Lakewood, CO
 
Josef Lovin   Lakewood, CO
 
It is getting a little greasy but for good reason. Smooth moves with a decent finish depending on where you clip. Sep 10, 2018