Type: Sport
FA: Dave Dangle/ Rex Mammel, 1990
Page Views: 2,493 total · 12/month
Shared By: Rex Mammel on Mar 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

This is the classic, crimping, hard 11.

Protection

Homemade hangers and cold shuts.

Photos

Joe Collins  
 
One of Shelf's best. The moves getting established on the face are pretty desperate. Mar 22, 2004
Andrew Iltis
Denver, CO
 
Andrew Iltis   Denver, CO
 
Great rests bolt to bolt. A long wingspan helps in upper pocket section. Jun 12, 2007
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
Anybody have ANY beta on getting established on the face??? Tried yesterday but could not figure it out.... Apr 14, 2008
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11d
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11d
Try going left after the bush instead of right. Oct 30, 2012
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
 
Excellent route! Great rest?? Pretty desperate middle crux on a very thin crimp leads to wonderful, yet sustained, climbing up top. Feb 14, 2013
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
If you can pull the move on this "11d", the crux of ejection seat will feel like a piece of cake. Jan 20, 2014
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
First ascent was in 1990. Not sure where the sandbag, published grade originates, but it's a good bit harder than 11d. Jan 20, 2015
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
Hardware upgraded 4-25-15. Four new 1/2" stainless lead bolts plus anchors (shared with Motif). Thanks to ASCA for the hardware! Apr 27, 2015
ROCKMAN2
Nederland, CO
  5.12a
ROCKMAN2   Nederland, CO
  5.12a
The crux over the bulge feels like V4-BV5, depending on your reach and footwork. Fierce line with beautiful throws to pockets following the crux. Harder than any other 5.11 I've done. The only 5.11 I have not on-sighted at Shelf as well. I thought Gym Arete was easier. Forget the numbers, and have fun trying hard on this classic! Jan 27, 2016