Type: Sport
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 5,651 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

195 Opinions

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This nice clean namesake route is a couple lines right of No Passion for Fashion and just left of The Big Chill. Follows a dished out seam up the face then over an overlap and face climbing above to the anchors. The holds are slopey and the climbing continuous, better climbed when in the shade (morning).


7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
Most fun I had that day. The finger crack start, which runs about 20-25 ft., is fun. Move up and right where this crack ends, to engage the bulge from the side. From a good, positive rail smack in the middle of the bulge, a long reach left gets another rail and then a big block, where creative body positioning will earn you a no-hands rest. From here to the top is balancey and sustained. May 13, 2004
Rich Kelly
Rich Kelly   Boulder
This is a great route requiring good technique and strength. The bulge is the crux and can be done different ways. As described in the above comment, the best holds lead you up right but then you are forced to go straight left. I found moving left to be the crux, requiring fancy foot work and hand cross overs to get your body weight under the good holds which sets you up for moving left up to the rest block. On TR I tried going straight up the bulge and while it was technically harder then how I lead it, it better positions you for the moves up left and is a lot less moves. Sep 21, 2005
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
Curt Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
Wow, slopers at Shelf. Sustained hard 10 climbing. It is getting quite chalked up and greasy though. Jun 14, 2009
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
A great route with fun movement through a variety of holds from jams to crimps to sidepulls to slopers.

W/the little ledges at the base of the route and the spacing between the 1st and 2nd bold, there is the potential to hit the deck if you came off clipping the 2nd. The crack, which runs from finger to near hand-size, would take easily take a cam in between the two bolts. Mar 7, 2010
Denver, CO
Niccole   Denver, CO
I think this route would have been great years ago. It is so polished it was like handling glass in some places. And on the small crimpers I need to get to larger holds this was a very hard route for its grade. Oct 21, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Excuse me? Save your stars for climbs that aren't actually shit-piles of festering muck. Never was there a more Vaseline-greased, glass-slippery, slope-infected nightmare of a 10. NEVER MIND that every conceivable horizontal feature is chalked up so heavily you get dizzy trying to figure out which are the 10% that you can actually use.

I think Niccole has it spot on. In its day, Mensus must have been quite tasty. Today? Fifty thousand sends later? It's about as appetizing as its namesake. Avoid as such. Oct 25, 2010
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
Great route many years ago.
Now that it is so polished, I rate it from 4 stars to 2 stars.
Best done when cold due to the polished factor. Oct 26, 2010
Not a classic. Not a warmup. Warm up with the Big Chill and save your energy for No Passion or Sundogs instead. Mar 17, 2013
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Based on the comments, I was expecting this to be more polished. I didn't think it was that bad. A few reasonable rests help break up the harder sections. Dec 28, 2013
Chrissy Crushes
Boulder, CO
Chrissy Crushes   Boulder, CO
A bit polished? Indeed...and I feel like most times I've walk around the corner...there is a group of 6 waiting to TR it and another group waiting until they're finished...but late on a Sunday with no one in sight, full shade and cooling temps...had a great time on it. I think the movement is good, the holds are right where you need them to be to keep it spicy/fun, not over bolted by any means. So get on it if it's free and in the shade! Maybe not worth the wait to fight the masses for.... Sep 15, 2014
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
She's slick, all right. Pretty stout 5.10d, it makes you fight for it all the way to the anchors, despite several good rests after pulling the crux.

I never understand though why people insist on lining up for the same 15-20 or so routes at Shelf when there's a thousand routes, mostly with a very similar style of climbing. Give the Menses a break, for God's sake. It's not THAT good. Jan 17, 2018