Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith, Alan Nelson 4/90
Page Views: 675 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Dec 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This route is on the left side of the front of the Menses Prow, just around the corner to the right of "Period Piece". It is listed in William Prehm's photo topo as "Napoleonic Code (5.12b)". The original documented name is "Scratch and Claw", and the original grade was 5.12c. Start on the left edge of a cave, scratch up right onto the face, then claw across the roofs on the left to the anchors.

Protection

Five bolts to rap anchors.

Photos

My apologies for calling this route and Cosmic Thing by other names in my guide. Kurt told me he didn't name them and I could call them whatever I wanted. I went with a General theme.

Sep 6, 2004
this route is pretty good, but a couple of tips might make your ascent more fun. The topo on the web site shows the line veering over right to easier ground at a bulge just before the big roof. This would have to decrease the quality of the line, and make it quite a bit easier -- if you care about that. I went straight up to the roof on some crimps, this was the "redpoint crux" for me. Also, I guess this route has been given an S or R rating. It must be for the scarey flake at the top. I think its fine, but youre definitely haning it out there when you yard up this bongo flake. I'm a fairly big guy, as sport climbers go, and at 175-180 lbs I didn't pull anything off. Also, I would recommend clipping a draw on the anchors and then moving slightly left and up to the next route left's anchors. This routes anchors have a mass of crappy slings. The bolts are fine though. Jan 10, 2005
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b/c
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b/c
This route climbs better than it looks. Sep 8, 2007