Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith, Alan Nelson, 4/90
Page Views: 1,418 total · 7/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Dec 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Follow the bolts between "Smokin' Crack" and "Dealin' Crack" up face, up an arete, and over overlaps to a belay ledge. This route is shown in William Prehm's photo topo as "The General (5.12a)". I'll stick with the original name of "Cosmic Thing" and the original grade of 5.12b. It's a great pitch.

Protection

Six bolts to rap anchors.

Photos

Fun route, but ain't no way its 3 stars or 12b. Van Horn's guide calls it 11d/12a, and I'd put it on the lower end of that range when compared to other routes of the grade at Shelf. Nov 3, 2003
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
 
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
 
I got on this route today and I really liked it. I felt that the crux was in the section when your right hand is on the arete down near the bottom half. I had to do a pretty big lunge up to a good pocket with my left hand while pinching with my right. After this section the holds get better but the route gets a lot more overhung. Very pumpy finish! I would give it a solid 12a. Great route. Feb 26, 2006
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
2 star route at best. The rap anchors are about 6 feet too high on this route. Dec 8, 2008
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12a
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12a
2.5 stars outa 4. Would be a classic at any area if it wasn't compared to the classics at Shelf. Fun movement on the arete to a pumpy, jug haul. Jan 11, 2009
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
 
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
 
I don't like to down rate climbs just for sake of flexing my ego. I climbed this route more than twice many years ago. It's a great climb established by two old friends and all time legends. The crux was low on the route. The upper section was overhanging with good holds, not your typical Shelf Road climb. I'd call it .12a and easier than Sundogs at .12a/b. Nov 25, 2014