Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,592 total · 8/month
Shared By: Sean O'Dell on May 18, 2002 with updates from JFM
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Located on the back (north) side of the California Ethics Pinnacle is a short face with 2 interseting warmup routes. The north face of the CEP is broken up by a small, stubborn pine tree dead in the middle of the face. True to Tradition (aka - the Original Route) follows 2 hangers up the right side of the tree, and Tucker's Faith follows 2 different hangers on the left.

Both routes are almost identical - Tucker's Faith does grant a little more exposed feeling as it follows the arete on the NW corner of CEP. Neither is much to write home about; however, they are always in the shade and do offer outstanding views of the Shelf Road Valley below.

It should be noted that some of the Shelf Road guidebooks state that these routes are missing hangers on the bolts, etc. As of May 2002, both routes on this face have adequate fixed pro, and nothing appears to be missing.

Protection

2 bolts (and a tree) to eye bolt anchors.

Photos

Sean O'Dell
  5.7+
Sean O'Dell  
  5.7+
oops - Tucker's Faith pulls the arete on the north EAST corner of CEP. This whole left, right thing - I dunno... May 26, 2002
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
There are two hangers missing on the lower part of this route, but they aren't necessary. In fact, starting that low could result in a dangerous spine-cracker on the ledge. Just start at the obvious belay ledge.

Easy cheesy and short climbing, but with a nice photo-op. And, how cool is it to climb the dark side of a spire :).

For a warm-up, I'd get on any one of the other nice 8s or 9s on Menses as this isn't really long enough to warm you up. May 26, 2009
JFM
  5.7+
JFM  
  5.7+
As of 11-20-14, the two lower studs are still present on this route. It would be nice if they were removed. I agree with Caleb (above) that a fall from either of the two missing bolts would not go well; also, reaching the first available bolt is straightforward from the belay ledge. Nov 30, 2014
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
Top anchor shared with Original Route replaced 4/23/16 with hangers (provided by Tzilla) and quicklinks/rings provided by the ASCA. Apr 25, 2016