Type: Sport
FA: Pat, Azenda, Rick and Jana Thompson, Kevin and Janet Vowles
Page Views: 2,365 total · 11/month
Shared By: montay on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


115 Opinions

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Description

To find this route, hike into the Gallery canyon and head up to Menses' Prow. From here, hike left (west) past the California Ethics Pinnacle approximately 100 yards. There should be a large 15 foot tall ledge below numerous bolted routes. To the right of this ledge is a dark corner with a slab with bolts. This is BOSS method.

This is a good quick warmup or beginner's lead. You can pretty much make this one as difficult as you want. Most people climb it on the left and use the corner for extra holds. However, the right side and straight up the middle go fairly easily as well.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts and anchors.

Photos

neat little route! Following the bolt line directly seems quite a bit harder than the rating in my oppinion, but as the route description states, the corner to the left is easier ground. Also, once the TR is established, the chimney to the right provides a safe place to practice your chimney technique. Apr 9, 2002
Hey man I really would like to know who got the FA. I can't figure it out because you have like 5 people of it, but Only one person can get The FA. So if you could tell me who that person is that would be great. Jul 6, 2002
Andy - dude, take a pill. Having a coniption over who got the FA on a 5.8 sport line is kind of like making a big deal over who the valedictorian was in summer school. Jun 3, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
Maybe the 5.8 rating is a "split the difference" kind of thing.... Following the bolt line seems more difficult than 5.8, but going up the corner just to the left is significantly easier. Feb 16, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.7
Larry Shaw  
  5.7
The crack that follows left seems to be in the .7- range. Sep 9, 2004
Rob Migliore
  5.8
Rob Migliore  
  5.8
Good for some morning to early afternoon shade. The left line was the easiest clipping line around a 5.8. I thought straight up was much harder, around 5.9+, despite what the book said. The bolts are a bit far to lead from the right chimney-ish line, but is super fun on top rope. From the top of Boss Method you can access the anchors to Dumb Waiter to set up a top rope. Sep 27, 2004
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
I led this following the flake on the right side and traversed left above the 2nd bolt. The traverse was a bit sketch and felt like it hit the rating of 5.8. A little awkward to gain the anchors. Apr 11, 2010
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I followed the bolts and felt it was pretty thin, in the 5.9 range, and I'm a good slab climber.

Watched other climbers do it to the left of the bolts in the cracks and flakes, they thought it was 5.7+/5.8- that way. Apr 9, 2013
jamesm
Canon City, Co
  5.8
jamesm   Canon City, Co
  5.8
A great place to get out of the weather and wind. Apr 17, 2014
JFM
 
JFM  
 
I agree with Rob & Arlo (above) - going straight up the slab section is slightly tougher than 5.8, maybe not quite 9+. Nov 30, 2014
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.8
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.8
Great route with 4 distinct options from the same anchor:

Option A: follow the crack left of the bolt line for mostly 5.6/.7 climbing, with one easy .8 move before the anchors.

Option B: climb the face directly on the bolt line for fun 5.8 climbing.

Option C: climb the crack right of the bolt line (5.8ish) until it ends, then stay on the face right of the bolt line for the last few moves (if you don't use the wall behind you, the top face goes at 5.10).

Option D: (toprope only) climb the giant chimney to off-width to the right of the face. It starts off with really fun 5.6 chimney climbing but ends up in a 5.8 offwidth.

A lot of value from one anchor for this one, and it is in the shade!!! Nov 5, 2018