Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,694 total · 13/month
Shared By: Sean O'Dell on May 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


156 Opinions

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Description

This excellent route is located on the west face of the California Ethics Pinacle (CEP on the pictures of the area). To get there, follow the sand gulch trail as described for Period Piece. CEP is the obvious detached tower of rock about 30 yards west of the eastern end of Menses Prow.

Everything about this route is 3 star, in my oppinion. Start on the lower right side of the west face on small, sharp pockets. Angle slightly left and negotiate a small overhang. The pro is all bomber, the climbing is aesthetic, and the views of the valley are outstanding. Probably the best route of its grade that I have done at Shelf. The only thing that could make it better is if it were longer.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors.
uhhhh, 5.7? didn't inflation go out with the [Reagan Administration]?? Jun 26, 2002
Sean O'Dell
  5.9
Sean O'Dell  
  5.9
Looks like we have the same problem on this route as we do on Bat Crack - different guide books (and different climbers, for that matter) give it entirely different ratings. The someit as 5.7, Knapp's book lists it at 5.9. Personally, I'll admit I thought it was soft for a 9, stout for a 7. I guess the moral of the story is that there is good deal of debate surrounding ratings in this area, so forget the numbers game, use the rating as a "ballpark," climb it yourself, and draw your own conclusions. Jul 27, 2002
CLR
CLR  
Just typing to let you know that yesterday, I typed Red Dog and Tucker's Faith in criss-cross; Red Dog is on the North-West facing wall, and Tucker's Faith is on the North-East side of the South-East facing California Pinnacle arĂȘte. I spaced out the fact that I criss-crossed the names after Fred Napp printed the fact that, the North-West facing (of the California Pinnacle) looks like a beer bottle... This is just to you.... not on-line....Thank you for not printing anything about... The Flame... because of liability; The very first time I did it, I on-sight, solo, flashed the last pitch-with no Bata and no rope; The Traditional climber's who watched and who heard about it, all said that NO PERSON HAD EVER ON-SIGHT, SOLO, FLASHED THAT PITCH WITHOUT A ROPE, AND WITH NO BATTA BEFORE... 1991?Take it easy...CLR Dec 31, 2002
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
An interesting move or two but nothing spectacular. It's easier to stay right on the arete and stretch left to clip. Oct 5, 2008
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
The anchor bolts are cold shuts.

The left one is worn about 1/3 through and needs to be replaced. Apr 3, 2013
jamesm
Canon City, Co
  5.9
jamesm   Canon City, Co
  5.9
It's a fun 9, that's for sure. Just run the face, maybe look right for some new stuff, but all in all a solid fun 9. One of my favs. Oct 30, 2014
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
4th bolt replaced 4/23/16 with stainless steel bolt/hanger provided by ASCA.
The anchors and remaining bolts had already been updated. Apr 25, 2016