Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 12/10
Page Views: 2,932 total · 30/month
Shared By: MJM on Dec 18, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


85 Opinions

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Description

Start either under C1 or traverse in from the right for an easier start. Once at C1, go straight up on huge holds for 2 clips to the (LLLL) Ledge.

Sustained 8ish climbing straight up for 3 clips on good pockets and edges gets you to a great stance. Continue on with more great holds for 2 clips, then cruise the final short, crux, bulge section, and then climb sharp pockets to the anchors.

Location

This is in between First Blood & Period Epic.

Protection

11 clips to anchors.
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
I thought this was a fun moderate route on the blunt arete about 12 feet right of "First Blood." For me, the crux was clipping the first bolt, and then again reaching the bolt just about 15 inches left and below where Nan is standing in the photo. BTW, it's a long route to the top -- a 60M rope should be okay, but tie knots in the end to be safe.

MJM -- the bolts were all thoughtfully placed; thank you for putting up a fun moderate route! Apr 17, 2011
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
I thought the crux was at the first bolt! After that, it's just super fun 5.8 and below climbing for 70 feet. Mar 27, 2017
Starting right, then going left after the ledge seemed a nice 5.8.
Starting left, then staying right of the obvious crack was a fun alternative, more like 9+. May 29, 2018