Type: Sport
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 1,878 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001 with updates from JFM
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


83 Opinions

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Description

Ok, this route has a strange name, but it is a good climb. It is the left-most route on Bulge Wall. It starts two climbs left and below belay ledge with tree. It has fun climbing on positive holds, some of the moves are reachy.

It felt like 10a, so I compromised with Van Horn's rating of 10c/d at 10b.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Great route, but a little soft. Try LOVE PUMP 10b/c which is to the right of turbo, and is the righmost route starting from a ledge. Jul 27, 2001
In Stewart Green's guide this was called "easy" 10a. I agree. Nov 12, 2002
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10c
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10c
There is only one or two tricky moves up high on the route, while the rest is 5.9 climbing on big holds. Sep 28, 2003
I know I'm in the minority, but for some reason I had trouble with this climb and found it harder than other 10b's or The Big Chill. It only has one crux section of a couple of moves, but I always feel scrunched up, then have to match on a long reach which feels like I'm going to peel off of. I guess it just exposes my weeknesses, although I'll play the 'height card' and say it's easier for short people! Jun 4, 2004
Kyle Judson
Colorado
Kyle Judson   Colorado
Bouldery start and tricky to clip the 2nd bolt. Watch out for wasps. Jul 18, 2011
Peter Swank
Edinburgh, UK
  5.10a/b
Peter Swank   Edinburgh, UK
  5.10a/b
Good set of sequence moves at the crux, but everything is there. May 21, 2012
dancesatmoonrise
  5.10-
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.10-
Always pretty much agreed with Mark's 10a/b rating (1990 guidebook) but have seen a lot of better climbers having considerable trouble on it.

Personally, I enjoy the route. Great warm-up. Dec 15, 2012
Derek Young
Denver, CO
  5.10+
Derek Young   Denver, CO
  5.10+
I think a hold broke off... or... we all climbed it incorrectly with different ways of approaching the crux. Definitely harder than (and not as good as) "Love Pump" (in our opinions). Oct 8, 2017
Nate Gehrke
  5.10d PG13
Nate Gehrke  
  5.10d PG13
I definitely think a hold broke off in the mid-section. The downturned and thin 2 finger pocket move is for sure a 10+/11-. The top section to the anchor I don't believe is 10a also. Be careful with the start, the first clip is quite high. Sep 23, 2018
John W
Estes Park
  5.10c/d
John W   Estes Park
  5.10c/d
Just did Blackman's Burden before this route (benchmark 10c), and the crux on this felt just as hard or even harder. Polished holds in the sun didn't help of course. Before and after the crux is 5.9. Let me be more clear, this is not 10-. Sep 27, 2018