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Routes in Menses Prow

A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Abscessed Words to Climb S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
After Dark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Armies Of Metaphors S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
B.O.S.S. Method, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back for More S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Baroque Period, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bat Crack T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Chill, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Caught in the Middle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chiba Chiba S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cosmic Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dealin' Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dumb Waiter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fever S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Blood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Strike S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashback To Acid Beach S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Graceland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I am a Viking S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jumbo Pumping Love S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Krakatoa S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lamont's Period S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Light Days S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Liquid Affair S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lunch at the Y S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Menses S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Metaphysical Fictions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My What a Big Bulge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Passion for Fashion S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Original Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Period Epic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Period Piece S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pig Dictionary S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prima Nocta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pueblo Gringos S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Dog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scratch and Claw S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shelf's Worst Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Slender Fungus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smart Server S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smokin' Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stratabulge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sudden Impact S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sundogs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thirteen Engines S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
True to Tradition/Tucker's Faith S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Weed n' Feed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 845 total, 4/month
Shared By: montay on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

If I remember correctly, it is Knapp's Shelf Road guide that gives this route the name. I don't really understand why though. It is actually a pretty good route (IMHO).

To find the route, hike into the Gallery canyon and up to the Menses' Prow. Head left (west) to the California Ethics Pinnacle. Directly behind this pinnacle is Bat Crack, a hand crack/chimney with guano. Just to the right of this is a bolted line that trends slightly to the right; this is the route.

Fun crimping and high-stepping will get you through the fun little blank section. After this, the rock becomes somewhat camouflaged and it may require some searching to find the holds. They are all there; just be patient. Add a little bit of bulge to the top section and it really gets fun. The rock is a little bit chippy in places, so be careful.

Protection

Van Horn says 7 bolts and anchors ("Unknown" in the new book, route 51 in the Gallery section).

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This route deserves more credit than the name suggests. I'm sure it was considered chossy at some point, and a boulderer with a rope might think the upper part looks like mud (kinda is) and scary (not really), but it's actually fun climbing. Well bolted with good clipping holds. Nothing moved or broke when I climbed it. Seems like there could be lines of greater resistance through parts of it which would take you through less empowering rock... so just avoid those, but falling objects wouldn't hit your belayer, only the folks on the neighboring climb. Mar 14, 2016
Having climbed this a number of years ago, I can tell you where the name came from. The route was (years ago, anyway) one of the worst choss piles at Shelf. And that's saying something. I remember a terrifying onsight attempt cut short by several holds breaking simultaneously, back in the day. I have no doubt that it's cleaned up significantly since then, though, and the route trends right enough that the belayer generally isn't in too much danger. Bolts are solid, too. So have at it! Oct 18, 2001