Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith, 4/90
Page Views: 1,410 total · 7/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Dec 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Face climb up a left-facing corner, then up through the roof left of a prow to the anchors. This is what you get if you combine "Hail Caesar (5.11b)" and "King Tut (5.11d)" in William Prehm's photo topo into the one route that really exists.


This is the first bolted route to the right of "Dealin' Crack". It shares a last bolt and anchors with "Chiba Chiba" immediately to the right.


Six bolts to rap anchors (shared with "Chiba Chiba").


Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Hi Alan - In hopes of sorting out the confusion "A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing" (12a/b) is a route I added in 1998 which starts about 10 feet right of Chiba Chiba. A more detailed description can be found in Appendix A (page 187)of Mark Van Horn's most recent edition of Rock Climbing Shelf Road.

cheers, - Rick Thompson Jan 21, 2002
Rob Kepley
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
Wow, I climbed this route over the weekend and I think the new guide gives it an 11b rating. I thought it felt a bit hard for the grade and tricky too. I agree on the two stars it gets also. Probably worth doing once. Feb 27, 2006
Moritz B.  
The first bolt seems a little high. It looks like the first bolt is missing. The hole is still visible. We used a stick clip. Great route! Nov 10, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Loved this climb! Kinda high first bolt but followed by great climbing. A must do. Feb 15, 2014
John Ryan
Poncha Springs, CO
John Ryan   Poncha Springs, CO
Great climb. Technical crux starts at tiny roof feature just past first bolt. Lets up after reaching the left flake after third bolt. Then it's big holds, small roofs, and a somewhat tricky mantle move. Also, first bolt is still really high - maybe 20 feet. Apr 6, 2016
Boulder, CO
Branty   Boulder, CO
Hmmm -- I was a bit confused on this climb. Starting far to the left of the arete, near some good pockets, seemed right, but the sharp holds to the left of the first roof made me think I wasn't on an 11b/c. Then again, it was snowing and my fingers were numb....

Maybe start farther to the right, where there's more bolts and more holds. Apr 23, 2018