Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,182 total · 10/month
Shared By: William Prehm on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

86 Opinions

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This route is located on the black face to the left of the Bulge Wall. Moving over the bulge near the end of the climb is the crux. I think this climb actually might deserve a little higher rating because of the crux moves.


[5] bolts to anchor.


I hate 9+ ratings, but this is certainly no sandbag. Nov 19, 2001
The crux is definitely at the bulge and is definitely a little funky. However, I'd be tempted to agree with the 9+ rating only because of some really positive, but really hard to find pockets on the bulge. When you get to the bulge, traverse to the leftmost corner (the edge of the chimney by the B.O.S.S. Method) and feel around. There ARE some really nice 4-finger pockets at the crux if you take the time to find them. Apr 9, 2002
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
Follow the beta given by those who've posted here and she's a 5.9, for sure. Well protected. If you're going to toprope be sure to bring long slings - longer than you're thinking - as the bulge will chew your rope.

Can anyone tell me the name of the route a yard or so right of Dumb Waiter? It takes the outside (sunny) arete of the same rock, just where the trail bends by a gnarled tree. A few finger locks about mid-route in a short, bulging crack get you to a prominent, black, small (1 ft.) roof; anchors are just above this? What is that route? Jan 19, 2004
Based on the guide book, it seems like Dumb Waiter is the climb Sirius is asking about, not what is in the description here. The route starts about 10 feet right of BOSS Method and goes up over 2 small overhangs via 7 or 8 bolts. Sep 7, 2004
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
Not sure of the route name to the right but I believe it's a .10b. the waiter route was fun and has great pockets just where you want them...cool moves over the bulge. Sep 9, 2004
Well the first thing to keep in mind about this route is that the holds are there. Follow the beta, you'll find them.....Back to "Dumb Waiter". The holds are deffo there. Just take a deep breath and pull up over the bulge and you will find them. Big enough to stuff a volleyball into. Great route ... Aug 21, 2005
This is a really fun climb. There's always a perfect hold right where you need it which is why I think the rating is fitting. If you get stuck and feel like you're missing a hold... you probably are, and PS the one to the right is Smart Server... watch out for the trees and cacti on the lower off. Jun 3, 2006
As to which route, the entry indicates the route is "located on the black face to the left of the Bulge Wall." Is anyone else confused about this? I believe he means to the RIGHT of the bulge wall.

I have some update notes in the original 1990 Van Horn guidebook that indicates Dumb Waiter is 10 feet right of the Bulge Wall, 4 bolts. That's pretty much what we've always considered to be the route. Oct 7, 2012
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
There are actually 5 bolts to this climb.

The fifth bolt is at the bulge, probably hidden by the climber in the photo associated with the route.

The anchors are older cold shuts and are partially worn through.

Easier climbing to the third bolt, then consistently harder. Apr 9, 2013
Canon City, Co
jamesm   Canon City, Co
It's a super fun short route. I would almost call it an 8 except for the moves around that hump that makes it totally a 9, but the holds ARE there just look way left, might throw a heel hook in there to stop from barn dooring out. lol Oct 30, 2014
John W
Estes Park
John W   Estes Park
Looks like 5.11 even from right under the bulge crux, but don't be fooled, those are hero holds up there. Big jugs. Really fun. Sep 27, 2018