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Routes in Menses Prow

A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Abscessed Words to Climb S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
After Dark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Armies Of Metaphors S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
B.O.S.S. Method, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back for More S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Baroque Period, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bat Crack T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Chill, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Caught in the Middle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chiba Chiba S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cosmic Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dealin' Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dumb Waiter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fever S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Blood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Strike S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashback To Acid Beach S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Graceland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I am a Viking S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jumbo Pumping Love S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Krakatoa S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lamont's Period S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Light Days S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Liquid Affair S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lunch at the Y S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Menses S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Metaphysical Fictions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My What a Big Bulge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Passion for Fashion S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Original Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Period Epic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Period Piece S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pig Dictionary S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Prima Nocta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pueblo Gringos S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Dog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scratch and Claw S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shelf's Worst Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slender Fungus S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smart Server S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smokin' Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stratabulge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sudden Impact S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sundogs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thirteen Engines S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
True to Tradition/Tucker's Faith S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Weed n' Feed T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,038 total · 30/month
Shared By: Sean O'Dell on Apr 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the farthest route right on the bulge wall, or the farthest left on Menses Prow, depending on how you look at it. Ascend the face just to the right of the grassy gully just before the apex of the prow. Take the Sand Gulch Trail as described for the rest of The Gallery. Veer right at the first fork in the trail and left at the second fork. Period Piece is the first route you come to when the trail meets up with Menses Prow.

I personally feel this route is a litte easier than its 5.8 rating (I THINK it's listed as a .7 in Stuart Green's Colorado guidebook). Ascend fairly easy and gradually steepening rock through 7 bolts directly up the face. The crux is high on the route, where the angle steepens and the holds thin out a little. Every more difficult move is well-protected, and almost every bolt has a bomber clipping stance. The rock is very solid, with very few of the typical Shelf Road sharp edges. This route makes an excellent introduction to Shelf Road limestone for a beginning or intermediate leader.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.
Seconded and cleaned this route this weekend. I noticed that the bolts are about 1/2 way worn through. It seems like this route gets a lot of beginner/TR business and obviously there's been a lot of lowering off the bolts.

For the geology buffs out there, look for the cool little trilobite about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up on a little shelf to your left. Nov 12, 2002
Patrick Higgins  
  5.8
Super fun route for the grade. Almost as good as Mystery Crack. Long and sustained.

My sister's limit is .8, and she was hanging all over the start of this one. I agree with the guidebook: 5.8! Jun 15, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
  5.7
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
  5.7
Quality rock and quality moves... get ready for a few highsteps. Felt about 5.7 (maybe), but sustained. Feb 16, 2004
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
  5.8-
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
  5.8-
The crux for me was the anchor clipping stance (I was a little right of it). Apr 6, 2006
mtnjunkie
  5.7+
mtnjunkie  
  5.7+
Pretty sustained, but I love looking for all the pockets. It's like a treasure hunt! Anchor bolts are a little scary. I'd leave the last bolt clipped for a back-up. Oct 23, 2006
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8-
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8-
Fun route. The bolts and the anchors all looked solid. Apr 17, 2011
There is a loose hold about the size of a football near the top of this thing. I avoided it completely, but it was covered with chalk so people are using it... it will likely come off soon, please be careful! Jun 20, 2011
J. Broussard
CordryCorner
5.8 R
J. Broussard   CordryCorner
5.8 R
I felt like this was a 5.7 climb bolted for the 5.11 leader. Not a good warm up in that regard. Jan 30, 2012
Mark Wright
Minneapolis, MN
Mark Wright   Minneapolis, MN
The bottom moves are pretty polished up to the second clip. It gets better after that... nice climb. Aug 30, 2013
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
Top anchor quicklinks and smash rings replaced 4/23/16 with ASCA provided quicklink/rings. Thanks to ASCA and to PPCA for organizing the weekend! Apr 25, 2016
guerillaClimb Musinski
Vail CO
  5.7+
guerillaClimb Musinski   Vail CO
  5.7+
Nice slab climb. The crux is definitely at the top. Also found that there is a huge block that is loose and moves. If someone is up there and no one's around, it could be good to get rid of it. When I was there, I couldn't do it, 'cause there was a bunch of people... but if you look at the photos for this route in the picture that D. Lilliott took, the block the girl is holding on to definitely moves when grabbed. I avoided grabbing it or stepping on it. Nov 29, 2016
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
Climbed this first time 4 years ago - the start of the climb to the first bolt is getting very polished.

The new anchors and rings are very burly - thank you, Derek and ASCA! Jan 22, 2017
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
I wouldn't go as far to call this R rated, but it might be a tad scary for a new leader. It's quite easy though, just be careful because it's getting polished. Mar 27, 2017
Chip Loomis
  5.8-
Chip Loomis  
  5.8-
The bolts are a little spaced out, but they are exactly where you need them. Sustained 5.7/5.8 moves. Oct 30, 2017
Gina Kuzmick
  5.9 R
Gina Kuzmick  
  5.9 R
In classic Shelf fashion, there is extreme run-out between bolts. Not a difficult climb technically, but definitely a heady lead for the beginner leader. Mar 30, 2018

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