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Routes in Menses Prow

A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Abscessed Words to Climb S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
After Dark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Armies Of Metaphors S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
B.O.S.S. Method, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back for More S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Baroque Period, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bat Crack T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Chill, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Caught in the Middle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chiba Chiba S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cosmic Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dealin' Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dumb Waiter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fever S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Blood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Strike S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashback To Acid Beach S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Graceland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I am a Viking S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jumbo Pumping Love S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Krakatoa S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lamont's Period S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Light Days S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Liquid Affair S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lunch at the Y S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Menses S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Metaphysical Fictions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My What a Big Bulge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Passion for Fashion S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Original Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Period Epic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Period Piece S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pig Dictionary S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Prima Nocta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pueblo Gringos S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Dog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scratch and Claw S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shelf's Worst Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slender Fungus S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smart Server S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smokin' Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stratabulge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sudden Impact S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sundogs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thirteen Engines S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
True to Tradition/Tucker's Faith S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Weed n' Feed T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
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Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson
Page Views: 1,750 total · 9/month
Shared By: Sean O'Dell on May 18, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Bat Crack follows the large, obvious, guano-filled crack/chimney just behind and about 5 feet west of the California Ethics Pinnacle. Follow the trail to the Bulge Wall/Mense's Prow - the route will be obvious just after passing the CEP.

And interesting, pumpy, and potentially awkward route. Start off directly in the chimney, working up past 2 bolts to an overhung hand/fist crack. This is a good place for one o' them big cams, as it is definately a cruxy section getting to the 3rd bolt through the overhang. Swing out onto the arete forming the right edge of the chimney system and follow a few more bolts on somewhat easier ground to the anchors.

It should be noted that Fred Knapp's guidebook "Shelf Road Rock" lists this route as a 5.8. That rating is a big steaming pile of bat CRAP - this thing is every part of 10b.

Protection

Half a dozen cold shuts to anchors. You could also make use of a few fairly large cams (#3 or so).

Photos

Sean O'Dell  
 
I am serious, and don't call me Shirley. (I sure hope you've seen 'Airplane'...) OK, here's the deal with the rating...one book I have calls Bat Crack a 5.8. Now, I can't imagine anyone climbing Period Piece or Tucker's Faith (other nearby 5.7-5.8s) and then getting on Bat Crack and honestly saying they think all those routes are the same level. Personally, I thought Bat Crack was harder than ANY of the routes on the CEP, which are 5.9s (except the ones on the north, of course). Now, the beta photo on this site has Bat Crack listed as a 10b/c. Given what I just mentioned, that rating sounded a little more plausible, so that's the one I went with. I'll admit 10c is probably a bit of a stretch, but if you ask me, there's no way in HELL it's an 8. That's one schumck's opinion. Draw your own conclusions, I guess. Jun 4, 2002
FYI - The Falcon Guide for Shelf has this route listed as "Unknown - 5.10b/c" That's 2 outta 3. Jun 20, 2002
I climbed this route last weekend and it was easier than the Bastille Crack. Wouldn't that make this one a 5.7? I didn't use any cams though because I don't have any.

Jenny Jun 26, 2002
Sean O'Dell  
 
In light of rating debate on this route, I've asked around about this route, and here's what I've found: the more crack climbing experience people have, the easier they rate it. So, numbers game aside, here's the deal - there IS an offwidth overhang at the crux, and the less comfortable you are with that, the harder it will seem - all the way up to the point where some call it a 5.7, some call it 10c. That's a big gap, which should show you just how subjective and, to some extent, meaningless ratings really are. Take the beta for what it's worth, climb it yourself, and draw your own conclusions. Jul 27, 2002
Tradkelly
5.8+
Tradkelly  
5.8+
If you lead it straight trad, and know how to climb cracks and OWs, it's IMHO pretty 8ish. I was dying on sport routes on CEP (yep, I suck at sport) and pointed at it, annoyed mightily, and told my partner "I'm climbing 'THAT' Anything with trad pro and not these bolts." The sport climbers all around us thought I was whacked for even carrying a rack up to the crag. I have been told, though, that if you use the face and eschew the crack (great OW holds, BTW) that it's pretty bloody hard. But then, why would someone use a crack when there's a pretty line of bolts 2 feet away? (sarcasm.) Nov 7, 2002
CLR
CLR  
In 1995, Jason helped me bolt this line; TRUST ME, IF THIS CLIMB WAS AT TURKEY ROCK... it would not make it to a 5.9 RATING!!! Jan 3, 2003
CLR
CLR  
FA: Carrie and Jason Jan 3, 2003
Jeff St. Pierre
  5.9+
Jeff St. Pierre  
  5.9+
Regardless of rating... this is an unaesthetic, dirty, crack full of guano, and the anchor is a bear to get to... You've finished the "best" (note the sarcasm) part of the climb and then they force you up a chimney and make you hang out of it to clip the anchor on the face. What a pain in the ol' britches, and that's from a 6'3" climber.... My personal opinion is "Don't waste your time".

Dirty, nasty, wet... there's a reason it is called Bat (sh*t) Crack.

The rest of the climb may be 5.8ish, but clipping the anchor is not easy and downright dangerous IMHO. May 5, 2003
Carrie  
FA: Carrie & Bob Robertson Oct 3, 2003
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
Ignoring absolute numbers/ratings in favor of relativism, IMHO, FWIW, this route felt harder than Period Piece and about the same as Red Dog...perhaps with a harder crux move than Red Dog. Aug 25, 2005
J P
Denver, CO
  5.10b R
J P   Denver, CO
  5.10b R
Thought this climb was more demanding than Pueblo Gringos on the CEP. I agree that getting to the anchors is sketchy as they're around the face from the top of a crack that lacks bomber holds.

Bat poop was only an issue for about the first 1/4 of the climb.

This area of the Gallery is prone to early season, early day shade making for some cold rock. If it's dark and windy, I would recommend skipping this climb. Mar 27, 2006
lbishop
Durango, CO
lbishop   Durango, CO
I hail from the Midwest, and, if this route was back in some of my old stomping grounds, it would be rated 5.7, if that! Out here, I realize that A LOT of stuff is sandbagged, but 10b/c...are you serious? I firmly believe that a route should be graded as per the average of moves on the route. That would place this at about 5.8. Enough said. Jul 25, 2006
Sauce
Golden, CO.
  5.9
Sauce   Golden, CO.
  5.9
I wasn't surprised to see a little grade controversy on this route. I think it was a little burlier than the 5.8 I expected but would not put in the 5.10 range. Solid 5.9. Apr 5, 2010
Grant Gerhard
Las Vegas, NV
 
Grant Gerhard   Las Vegas, NV
 
Choss pile: Had a hold break in my hand directly below the 3rd or 4th bolt, placed a chalk X on the remaining crappy rock. Anchors were in very poor shape.... Sep 27, 2010
Jeff Thomas
  5.9+
Jeff Thomas  
  5.9+
A fun route until the anchors. The move from the chimney to the anchors is awkward. The hand crack in the back of the chimney is pretty polished to top it off. I whipped one move from the anchors, not the cleanest fall but not too bad. Pulling the roof is the crux and would be a lot harder if you don't find the big pocket inside the crack.

I think 9 is a fair rating. It felt harder than that to me, but I haven't had the chance to climb too many cracks, so my rating may even be off.

If the anchors were just right of the crack, this route would have been much better. May 7, 2012
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Got to the base to see a chalked "NO" at the base. Some poop on the ledge, a couple crack dependent (big hands / fists) moves, and unconventional bolt placements may not make this climb ideal if pushing your grade here, but please, don't chalk up the walls with your opinions. I found it to be a super engaging crack line and has great new bolts and anchors, and whaaaaat? Bomber hand jam to clip the chains from? Super unique! Apr 20, 2018

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