Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,823 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 6, 2006 with updates from JFM
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

67 Opinions

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A short climb with variety: face, roof, and finger crack.

Start 5' right of Dumb Waiter, below the right side of the pinnacle, at a tree just above the trail. Climb the face to a roof, turn the roof via a finger crack (crux), step left and continue to the top.


5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Call me crazy, but this may be one of my favorite routes at Shelf. Loved the finger crack moves about halfway up! Sep 8, 2009
Chossy, hollow rock to the left of this climb. Several loose rocks and tenuous looking chunks. Be careful! Oct 18, 2010
matt bruton
Colorado Springs, Colorado
matt bruton   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Good 10 a/b left face above the crack, but it can be a little loose. Jan 25, 2011
Chrissy Crushes
Boulder, CO
Chrissy Crushes   Boulder, CO
The description in the guidebook was confusing...start from a ledge?? 10 feet right of Dumb Waiter? Try 5 ft?.... I agree that this climb was super fun. The rock quality especially through the bottom was rather low. Hollow knocks abounded! Be careful out there! Sep 15, 2014
The latest guidebook is unfortunately totally wrong. The route numbered 53: Dumb Waiter is actually 54: Smart Server, 5.10a. If you stand in the obvious, black corner containing the slab climb "The BOSS Method", there are two climbs within 12ft to the right. The second to the right is "Smart Server" and starts just where the tree/ledge end at the arete. The rock down low is just okay but improves quite nicely once you pull over the first roof via a unique finger crack with edges and sculpted jugs to follow. It's fun, definitely worth a lead on a sunny day.

  • Of note, this climb definitely has 8 BOLTS and a 2 BOLT ANCHOR, not the 5 bolts as published or reported here on Mtn Project.
Feb 16, 2015
Cañon City, CO
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
I would climb this one again! Apr 20, 2015
There's more than 5 bolts! (I'm pretty sure there's 7 plus the anchors.) Oct 31, 2017
Ben D.
Ben D.   Colorado
This would be a 3-star climb if there wasn't so much vegetation and loose rock on the lower half of the route. Still a whole lot of fun, particularly the finger crack! Nov 5, 2018