Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 979 total · 5/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Mar 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is one of the best hand cracks that I have done at shelf. There are some tricky moves to get started, but then enjoy perfect hand jams for the next 40 ft. There are a pair of anchors on a ledge about 65ft up to keep the route at 5.10c. The 5.11b extension goes above the ledge with 3 bolts. These are well spaced and a fall at the wrong time would put you on the ledge. A few TCU's and small cams will make this more enjoyable. The finger crack on the 2nd half is fun, but the crux comes at the last bolt. I think you need to veer left or right at the last bulge. I could not figure out the straight up variation. Fun route with the crux at 90ft.

Protection

Draws and a few TCUs for the 2nd half of the route.

Photos

Joe Collins  
 
Nice first pitch, though it really shouldn't be bolted... even at Shelf.Lots of loose stuff on the 2nd pitch... it really needs a LOT more cleaning. I went hard left at the last bolt... not much there straight up. This goes easily in one pitch with long slings in a few places. Jun 1, 2004
Jesse Ryan
  5.11b
Jesse Ryan  
  5.11b
Nice 1st pitch, 2nd pitch barely worth doing. I too went hard left at top. Watch out for wasps. Oct 13, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
My notes said 10c for the whole route. When did the extension go in? After Y2K? Cause I would not have stopped before the top and I didn't call it 5.11....
Anyway, what can someone say about bolted cracks, other than that they are bolted. Hard to give it stars as such. Nov 29, 2008
Aaron Furman
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10c/d R
Aaron Furman   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10c/d R
Was not a fan, very very sharp points on the shelves that just destroyed your tips (not in a good way). We all wished we hadn't tried this one. Apr 10, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
Climbing this to the first anchors makes this an awesome route. I have no idea where the R rating is coming from, the climbing to the first anchors is plenty well-protected.

I only found there to be one painful jam at the very start which could be avoided with face holds. I recommend this route if you like cracks! Mar 21, 2017