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Routes in Menses Prow

A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Abscessed Words to Climb S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
After Dark S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Armies Of Metaphors S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
B.O.S.S. Method, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back for More S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Baroque Period, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bat Crack T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Chill, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Caught in the Middle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chiba Chiba S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cosmic Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dealin' Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dumb Waiter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fever S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Blood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Strike S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flashback To Acid Beach S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Graceland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I am a Viking S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jumbo Pumping Love S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Krakatoa S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lamont's Period S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Light Days S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Liquid Affair S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lunch at the Y S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Menses S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Metaphysical Fictions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My What a Big Bulge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Passion for Fashion S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Original Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Period Epic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Period Piece S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pig Dictionary S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prima Nocta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pueblo Gringos S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Dog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scratch and Claw S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shelf's Worst Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Slender Fungus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smart Server S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smokin' Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stratabulge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sudden Impact S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sundogs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thirteen Engines S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
True to Tradition/Tucker's Faith S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turbo Charged, Inter-Cooled Meat Machine S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Weed n' Feed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 931 total, 6/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Mar 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is one of the best hand cracks that I have done at shelf. There are some tricky moves to get started, but then enjoy perfect hand jams for the next 40 ft. There are a pair of anchors on a ledge about 65ft up to keep the route at 5.10c. The 5.11b extension goes above the ledge with 3 bolts. These are well spaced and a fall at the wrong time would put you on the ledge. A few TCU's and small cams will make this more enjoyable. The finger crack on the 2nd half is fun, but the crux comes at the last bolt. I think you need to veer left or right at the last bulge. I could not figure out the straight up variation. Fun route with the crux at 90ft.

Protection

Draws and a few TCUs for the 2nd half of the route.

Photos

Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
Climbing this to the first anchors makes this an awesome route. I have no idea where the R rating is coming from, the climbing to the first anchors is plenty well-protected.

I only found there to be one painful jam at the very start which could be avoided with face holds. I recommend this route if you like cracks! Mar 21, 2017
Aaron Furman
  5.10c/d R
Aaron Furman  
  5.10c/d R
Was not a fan, very very sharp points on the shelves that just destroyed your tips (not in a good way). We all wished we hadn't tried this one. Apr 10, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
My notes said 10c for the whole route. When did the extension go in? After Y2K? Cause I would not have stopped before the top and I didn't call it 5.11....
Anyway, what can someone say about bolted cracks, other than that they are bolted. Hard to give it stars as such. Nov 29, 2008
Jesse Ryan
  5.11b
Jesse Ryan  
  5.11b
Nice 1st pitch, 2nd pitch barely worth doing. I too went hard left at top. Watch out for wasps. Oct 13, 2005
Joe Collins  
 
Nice first pitch, though it really shouldn't be bolted... even at Shelf.Lots of loose stuff on the 2nd pitch... it really needs a LOT more cleaning. I went hard left at the last bolt... not much there straight up. This goes easily in one pitch with long slings in a few places. Jun 1, 2004