Type: Sport
FA: Rex Mammel/ Mike McGee
Page Views: 1,561 total · 8/month
Shared By: Rex Mammel on Apr 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

The face just right of Period Piece climbs up to pleasureable roof moves on big holds. This is surprisingly solid and has a nice position.

Protection

7 bolts to chains.

Photos

Rex Mammel
  5.11a
Rex Mammel  
  5.11a
I tried to glue some of the holds using liquid nails stone and block adhesive. I don't know how successful this was so I would recommend that the belayer stand under the roof to avoid rockfall danger. I am also ammenable to upgrading the route to 11b if anyone can confirm. %:_) Apr 27, 2002
I would say two 11b cruxes (by the second bolt and at the big roof.) Nov 26, 2002
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
 
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
 
I think it was 11a. It's not that hard over the roof once you find the holds. Apr 7, 2008
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
 
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
 
Really nice route with enjoyable moves. There is a chunk of rock that will likely come off in the not too distant future that people may want to be aware of.

It's the block of stone that was, IMO, the most obvious left hand for the start and, based on rubber smear, is used a lot as a foot hold in the moves past the first bolt.

It's too low to be a danger for the belayer but, if it came off as someone was pulling onto the route it could lead to a surprising deck fall that would be short but could still do some damage. Mar 7, 2010
Nice movement, good line. Jun 20, 2011
Aaron Furman
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11b/c PG13
Aaron Furman   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11b/c PG13
I'd say this is a low grade, we all agreed that this was the "hardest" 11a we've all done at Shelf Rd., but then again. it was at the end of the day. and we were all on our 10th climb for the day. Apr 10, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
Hey Aaron, can I ask what you thought the PG-13 was on this route? It seemed pretty safe to me! Mar 21, 2017
Keith W
  5.11a
Keith W  
  5.11a
11a moves come before the roof. Pump factor makes the roof seem harder, but it's a jug haul through that section. Get on it! Great climb. Dec 11, 2017
Gina Kuzmick
5.11a
Gina Kuzmick  
5.11a
I climbed this today thinking it was the 5.7 - lol, definitely not. Managed to somehow get up to the fifth bolt then bailed at the roof. Very slabby climb. Mar 30, 2018