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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,918 total, 48/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Great thin hands crack route hidden behind a large block leaning against the cliff a hundred yards or so left of Battle of the Bulge. Work your feet as you jam up into the darkness, safe with the knowledge that you will indeed find a bolt anchor up there. Look around, a little creativity can aid in the struggle. Be careful when pulling the rope, or the crack will eat it. Bump this two star route up to three on a hot day.

Protection

2 0.5 camalots, 3 0.75 camalots, 5 #2 friends, 2 #1 camalots, 1 2.5 friend
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.10+
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.10+
Something about this crack made my toes hurt for days after climbing it. Cool setting but I didn't particularly enjoy the climbing itself all that much. Nov 28, 2015
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10+
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10+
Fun cramming. Beautiful red camalots the whole way, bring 2 yellows and a green (save one yellow for the top). Nice a cool in the sun in a very neat environment. Especially good for small hands people, pretty tight for me. Apr 20, 2012
dont wimp out and lie back work the ring locks and thin hands all the way up
bring lots of #1's Oct 23, 2010
I have fat hands and this route was very difficult for me. I placed several 0.75 Camalots through the middle section in addition to lots of #1s. #2 Friends would have been a little more convenient but Camalots worked fine. Sep 8, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.10+
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.10+
This route is amazing - thin hands splitter for 80' is nice enough on it's own, add in the unique location and beautiful setting and you have a 4-star classic on your hands. I used two .75 camelots and probably 5-6 #1's the rest of the way. It does open up a bit at the top, you may feel better with a #2 on your side. How you choose to approach this thing will greatly vary your experience - I had a struggle-fest to the top leading it, but all my friends walked the damn thing just laybacking it the whole way. Can't say enough about this one, definitely do it! Mar 30, 2009
Todd Glew
Charleston, WV
 
Todd Glew   Charleston, WV
 
good warm up for those with big hands wishing to get into the 11s at the creek, in my mind its an 11 for gorilla mits, man those feet are tricky to trust, the hands are okay, but one helluvah route, never climbed in a cave before, so i give it 4 stars for its uniqueness Aug 9, 2008
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
 
I gave this route 4 stars because it's a great splitter and IT'S IN THE SHADE! It can be sandy and gritty if it hasn't seen traffic since the last storm. Even the most Creek worn hands should take heed. Feb 17, 2008
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
Or rainy days!! Yeah I agree a single .75 and about 5-6 #1s will sew it up. Sep 18, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d
Nice climb with an interesting location - perfect for those warm days. Jan 25, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
It can be done on a single green camalot (.75) and then reds (#1) the rest of the way.

Don't ignore the no-hands stemming rests. Apr 18, 2002
I'd suggest going with the recommended rack at the top. The size most of the way is bad for both .75 and 1 Camalots - #2 Friends are key.

I'd also agree with Mike - jam this sucker. It's great practice for the size and other climbs where laying back is not an option. Nov 29, 2001
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
I have larg hands; #3 Camalots is a great jam. I climbed it with 1 #0.75 Camalots and 8 #1 Camalots. The route in my opinion deserves 3 stars. No jamming for me, lay back and stemming. I could not see the anchors until I was able to stem. Despite being relatively short I was worked by the time I reached the stem rest. Nov 19, 2001
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
This beauty is great for practicing jamming in smaller sizes. You can stay on your feet, in the crack, the entire way (I have medium hands and feet). This is especially true, since its a little less than vertical. This route is about 2 stars. Since its in a "cave", it provides nice relief from the hot sun. Nov 6, 2001