Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Beth Rodden 1999
Page Views: 6,033 total · 45/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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24 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is an incredibly fun left-facing corner with technical and powerful moves and not many rests. It is climbed via tight fingers - tips, and stemming.

Location

Left side of the wall, past Hole in the Wall but before Crack Attack.

Protection

Mostly small gear (Blue-Yellow Aliens), can also place a couple #1 Camalots.

Photos

Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
This is a fantastic pitch on par with many of the routes on BOTB getting 3.5 stars. Required exquisite stemming, laybacking, fingerlocking and faceclimbing skills all while placing bomber blue TCUs (need at least 5). Very sustained with some decent at best rests. Deserves classic status for the grade. Jun 2, 2008
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.12+
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.12+
Beth Rodden FA 1999 or 2000

Rock near the anchors is a bit soft. Dec 1, 2008
Ty Gittins
bozeman
Ty Gittins   bozeman
soft for sure....

youtube.com/watch?v=GQ854rw… May 17, 2011
Andrew McLean
Eldoorado Springs, CO
  5.12
Andrew McLean   Eldoorado Springs, CO
  5.12
Don't rely on aliens at the top... May 23, 2011
God i was pretty close to getting this one . The whole zippering the gear video is ridiculous. There is great blue metolius tcus,green aliens protecting the first crux where the dude fell. He must have had bad gear placements. Stem hard on this one and send! I actually got through the lower difficult stuff to a good rest....the upper crux is figuring out the gear...difficulty backs down quite a bit...but flared, softer rock is intimidating....remember to bring a set of green,red and gold camalots for the pods on this route. Wonderful climb! Oct 22, 2011
heppnerd  
 
hard for the creek scary lead Nov 1, 2012
Scott Bennett
  5.12-
Scott Bennett  
  5.12-
Felt a bit soft for 12. Great stemming most of the way, and great gear up high (#1 and #2 Camalots). Sure it gets thin, I even placed a slidernut, but you're above BOMBER gear and there are great footholds.

Don't be intimidated. Dec 7, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
  5.12b PG13
ben jammin   Moab, UT
  5.12b PG13
I whipped on a .2 camelot.. it held! edit post send.. place the red Camelot and run that shit out! Feb 25, 2013
Keith Reynolds onsighted this route to the hand jams before being forced to hang off a cam to clean loose rock and sand. The proper FA of the cleaned crack was shortly after completed by Beth Rodden. May 9, 2016