Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,959 total · 19/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Jun 8, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Route climbs a corner with a rather wide start then is mostly handcrack to the top.

Location

Route starts on the left end of the buttress. Head down towards Think Pink. Elbow Vices starts on the wall to the left of Pigs In Space.

Protection

Large piece for the beginning and then mostly hand-size stuff.

Photos

claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Man I really suck at wide stuff! That squeeze shouldn't be much of an issue but I just kept getting stuck with cams and all. Cool climb though if you don't mind the start. I had my back against the other wall the whole way... maybe that was part of my problem. Oct 16, 2009
Andrew McLean
Eldoorado Springs, CO
  5.10+
Andrew McLean   Eldoorado Springs, CO
  5.10+
Great climb to put a hot shit sport climber on. A friend of mine who climbs 12+ sport got shutdown in the squeeze. He's not fat either. The trick is the get your ass outside of the squeeze to move up then rest again each time you go up a few inches. A very narrow slot indeed. May 23, 2011
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Umph! The squeeze is definitely the crux. The scabs on my leg from this beast are still festering 6 days later... May 26, 2011
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
there is noway this is an even 5.10 and the one to the right is 10+, this makes that feel like 5.9. Mar 28, 2014
This thing is a bit of a pain in the ass.

I had to remove my chalk bag and all gear off my backside to fit. Definitely easiest to move near the opening, working the butt in and out, but it feels less secure and quite runout on lead. Inside the crack feels quite brutal but less risk of falling.

Pulling out of the chimney to the hand crack is quite fun. Nov 14, 2016