Avg: 3.4 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft|
|Page Views:||2,867 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Furman on Feb 19, 2007|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Beginning March 1-late July, the public will be asked to avoid climbing or hiking in areas where birds are known to nest. The climbing areas that are historically known to have nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as:
June 11, 2020 avoidance update:
The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall, and the multiple Meat Walls.
BLM biologists will continue monitoring efforts throughout the 2020 season, and the BLM will notify the public once young birds have fledged. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated when the avoidance areas are lifted. The BLM expects the avoidance areas to be lifted prior to the beginning of the fall climbing season.
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: email@example.com
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
The first 15-20 feet is scissor-ing/chimney-ing up a flaring slot with one awesome hand in the perfect #2 crack. It's a fair grunt-fest through this section but awfully secure thanks to the bomber hand crack deep in there. When this ends there's a section of perfect, easy #2s.
Then it widens to a (right side-in) OW/Squeeze Chimney. You might want your gear on the left side. I had mine on a shoulder sling, which worked well. My partner tried to start the squeeze left side in but it didn't go too well. By keeping the right in you can gain access to some edges on the left side of the wall up high. Mantle out of the chimney onto a ledge. Perfect rest.
Then surmount a sweet little roof, work up another few feet, get past a fairly discouraging wide slot, then it's tight hands and hands to the top. Full value and a good time.
Expect it to be a bit harder than many of the other 5.11- climbs in the neighborhood, unless you're pretty unfazed by the wide.
A seventy meter rope is just a hair too short...you'll need two ropes.
6 #2 camalots
5 #3 camalots
1 #1 camalot
1 #4 camalot
The squeeze protects well with a #4 stuffed back in there, but if you want to sew it up you'll need 2 of them.