Avg: 3.5 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft (39 m)|
|Page Views:||3,276 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Furman on Feb 19, 2007|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas - LIFTED as of September 1st 2021
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
The first 15-20 feet is scissor-ing/chimney-ing up a flaring slot with one awesome hand in the perfect #2 crack. It's a fair grunt-fest through this section but awfully secure thanks to the bomber hand crack deep in there. When this ends there's a section of perfect, easy #2s.
Then it widens to a (right side-in) OW/Squeeze Chimney. You might want your gear on the left side. I had mine on a shoulder sling, which worked well. My partner tried to start the squeeze left side in but it didn't go too well. By keeping the right in you can gain access to some edges on the left side of the wall up high. Mantle out of the chimney onto a ledge. Perfect rest.
Then surmount a sweet little roof, work up another few feet, get past a fairly discouraging wide slot, then it's tight hands and hands to the top. Full value and a good time.
Expect it to be a bit harder than many of the other 5.11- climbs in the neighborhood, unless you're pretty unfazed by the wide.
A seventy meter rope is just a hair too short...you'll need two ropes.
6 #2 camalots
5 #3 camalots
1 #1 camalot
1 #4 camalot
The squeeze protects well with a #4 stuffed back in there, but if you want to sew it up you'll need 2 of them.