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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,124 total, 16/month
Shared By: Nate Furman on Feb 19, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

BETA Alert--This text has Beta. If you don't want it, don't read it. This climb might be the route for the people who like Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout. It's a burl-fest!

The first 15-20 feet is scissor-ing/chimney-ing up a flaring slot with one awesome hand in the perfect #2 crack. It's a fair grunt-fest through this section but awfully secure thanks to the bomber hand crack deep in there. When this ends there's a section of perfect, easy #2s.

Then it widens to a (right side-in) OW/Squeeze Chimney. You might want your gear on the left side. I had mine on a shoulder sling, which worked well. My partner tried to start the squeeze left side in but it didn't go too well. By keeping the right in you can gain access to some edges on the left side of the wall up high. Mantle out of the chimney onto a ledge. Perfect rest.

Then surmount a sweet little roof, work up another few feet, get past a fairly discouraging wide slot, then it's tight hands and hands to the top. Full value and a good time.

Expect it to be a bit harder than many of the other 5.11- climbs in the neighborhood, unless you're pretty unfazed by the wide.

Location

The route is to the left of 20 meters to the left of big baby.
A seventy meter rope is just a hair too short...you'll need two ropes.

Protection

Highly recommend a durable long sleeve shirt and wearing socks under them climbing shoes. I had neither and my belayer was dodging drops of blood.

I used:
6 #2 camalots
5 #3 camalots
1 #1 camalot
1 #4 camalot

The squeeze protects well with a #4 stuffed back in there, but if you want to sew it up you'll need 2 of them.

Photos

Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
Anchors fixed spring 2017 .. i Mar 28, 2017
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
Similar to Cat Nap but quite a bit harder and less fun. It looks like a fun hand crack but it's mostly flare climbing with a neat roof. Nov 24, 2015
Dustin Clelen
Boulder, CO
 
Dustin Clelen   Boulder, CO
 
Wilcox510, Ditto...and I like offwidths and have normal sized hands. I didn't puke, but was certainly in the mood once or twice. This sucker is great for building character, but not for a fun cruise. Apr 15, 2012
I'm sure its just my general dislike for offwidths and flares etc, but I absolutely hated this route and found it to be the hardest 11- I have ever done at IC (again, I suck at this type of climbing). One massive grunt. Two different flares, both amazingly awkward. I have sort of smallish hands and the majority of this route was big cupped hands in the back of a hateful flare. The last 20 feet or so were actually OK, but thats it. Oct 24, 2009
Bart Paull
Boulder, CO
Bart Paull   Boulder, CO
The offwidth flare section halfway up is classic chicken winging, left side in ... Oct 22, 2008