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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: John Fantini and Greg Davis
Page Views: 3,772 total, 19/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Oct 5, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Two stars, but (because?) varied and highly worthwhile. Is variously rated 5.10+ or 5.11-; I concurred with the latter but it may be that the grade feels magnified by the necessity of placing much gear, as the crux presents a fall onto a block if not sewn up.

Walk past Battle of the Bulge, Black Corner, Quarter of a Man, Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout, etc. until you reach a massive RF corner, which is easily identified by the long, horrifying wide crack Big Baby, staring at you from the left wall. Our Piece of Real Estate starts in a corner itself. Scramble (low 5th class) up an easy corner, and clamber onto the block where the hard climbing starts. An interesting sequence uses the splitter rattly fingers crack on the left wall combined with super-thin fingers in the actual corner. Continue with somewhat pumpy thin hands in a flare, to a great rest, then stem out to a nice wide hands crack on the right wall which leads to the anchors.

Note: you can use a 60-M rope, but the person being lowered MUST stop atop the initial low-5th class section and downclimb. I was waited to do the climb while a person from the party ahead of us was dropped nearly into my lap (from about 10 feet up) because the rope went through his belayer's atc!

Protection

Bring one 1.5 friend, two-three #2 friends, several 2.5 friends, and several 3.5 friends for the final hand/fist crack. A couple tcus may be useful for the transition to the final crack.
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.11-
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.11-
Short crux (which can be done a few diff. ways) at the beginning gives way to ok climbing above- thin through cupped hands. Nov 19, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Sustained .75 in an offset at the start gives this route the 11- rating and I agree. Above there, the route is excellent 1s, 2s, and 3s to the chains. Really fun! Oct 16, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Good first .11 at the creek for most. Definitely .11- for a short section at the beginning. Dec 28, 2008
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Definitely .11a to the thin hands, but not harder. I've done several creek .10+s that were much easier. Nov 11, 2008
I climbed this one straight in in the left crack. It felt really really hard. 5.11 for sure, to call that 10+ is just retarded. Maybe there is some better beta though? Dec 12, 2007
Tavis Ricksecker  
5.11-
I laid the beginning back, and I definately felt way more gripped trying to flash this thing than I did on Crack Attack that same day. I missed the key finger lock out right and almost popped off getting into the flare with my pro beneath my feet.. a certain ledge fall at that point... But I didn't pop. 11- seems fair to me. Nov 26, 2007
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11a
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11a
I would give the start of this route 11- but this route is much easier than Jane Fonda. Apr 16, 2007
Nate Furman
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nate Furman   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
The thin start can be lied back for those not wishing to subject their knuckles to the ring locks. Sure, placing gear is a bit strenuous, but once again the "technique of no technique" finds an application. Feb 20, 2007
Greg Davis
  5.11a
Greg Davis  
  5.11a
F.A. John Fantini and Greg Davis Nov 26, 2006
I rap' d the route on a 60m and got to the ground just barely. The crux, getting off the block, might be hard but the climb is easy after that if you use the corner. I used it at the start and just kept using it scoring no hands rests throughout the flaired section. Just before the wide hands section, (black rock empires work well) there is a huge foot hold to the left. A good 10+ if your out of shape or have been climbing to many days in a row. A. Everhart Jun 1, 2003
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
I give it 11a. The length of the route ups the grade. This is one of my favorit routes and is varied to boot. Sep 24, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
The route's overall grade, and it's seminal climbing might be only 10+, but the weird thin moves at the bottom have spit off more than one strong climber. I left an extra rope behind me and had 2 people follow- both had trouble there. WHile this may not be what you remember about the route (which I feel is a GREAT route!), it earns it the 11a in my book.

Feb 28, 2002