Type: Trad
FA: John Fantini and Greg Davis
Page Views: 4,127 total · 20/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Oct 5, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Two stars, but (because?) varied and highly worthwhile. Is variously rated 5.10+ or 5.11-; I concurred with the latter but it may be that the grade feels magnified by the necessity of placing much gear, as the crux presents a fall onto a block if not sewn up.

Walk past Battle of the Bulge, Black Corner, Quarter of a Man, Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout, etc. until you reach a massive RF corner, which is easily identified by the long, horrifying wide crack Big Baby, staring at you from the left wall. Our Piece of Real Estate starts in a corner itself. Scramble (low 5th class) up an easy corner, and clamber onto the block where the hard climbing starts. An interesting sequence uses the splitter rattly fingers crack on the left wall combined with super-thin fingers in the actual corner. Continue with somewhat pumpy thin hands in a flare, to a great rest, then stem out to a nice wide hands crack on the right wall which leads to the anchors.

Note: you can use a 60-M rope, but the person being lowered MUST stop atop the initial low-5th class section and downclimb. I was waited to do the climb while a person from the party ahead of us was dropped nearly into my lap (from about 10 feet up) because the rope went through his belayer's atc!


Bring one 1.5 friend, two-three #2 friends, several 2.5 friends, and several 3.5 friends for the final hand/fist crack. A couple tcus may be useful for the transition to the final crack.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The route's overall grade, and it's seminal climbing might be only 10+, but the weird thin moves at the bottom have spit off more than one strong climber. I left an extra rope behind me and had 2 people follow- both had trouble there. WHile this may not be what you remember about the route (which I feel is a GREAT route!), it earns it the 11a in my book.

Feb 28, 2002
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
I give it 11a. The length of the route ups the grade. This is one of my favorit routes and is varied to boot. Sep 24, 2002
I rap' d the route on a 60m and got to the ground just barely. The crux, getting off the block, might be hard but the climb is easy after that if you use the corner. I used it at the start and just kept using it scoring no hands rests throughout the flaired section. Just before the wide hands section, (black rock empires work well) there is a huge foot hold to the left. A good 10+ if your out of shape or have been climbing to many days in a row. A. Everhart Jun 1, 2003
Greg Davis
Greg Davis  
F.A. John Fantini and Greg Davis Nov 26, 2006
Nate Furman
Salt Lake City, Utah
Nate Furman   Salt Lake City, Utah
The thin start can be lied back for those not wishing to subject their knuckles to the ring locks. Sure, placing gear is a bit strenuous, but once again the "technique of no technique" finds an application. Feb 20, 2007
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
I would give the start of this route 11- but this route is much easier than Jane Fonda. Apr 16, 2007
Tavis Ricksecker  
I laid the beginning back, and I definately felt way more gripped trying to flash this thing than I did on Crack Attack that same day. I missed the key finger lock out right and almost popped off getting into the flare with my pro beneath my feet.. a certain ledge fall at that point... But I didn't pop. 11- seems fair to me. Nov 26, 2007
I climbed this one straight in in the left crack. It felt really really hard. 5.11 for sure, to call that 10+ is just retarded. Maybe there is some better beta though? Dec 12, 2007
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Definitely .11a to the thin hands, but not harder. I've done several creek .10+s that were much easier. Nov 11, 2008
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Good first .11 at the creek for most. Definitely .11- for a short section at the beginning. Dec 28, 2008
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Sustained .75 in an offset at the start gives this route the 11- rating and I agree. Above there, the route is excellent 1s, 2s, and 3s to the chains. Really fun! Oct 16, 2009
Chris M
Hailey, ID
Chris M   Hailey, ID
Short crux (which can be done a few diff. ways) at the beginning gives way to ok climbing above- thin through cupped hands. Nov 19, 2009