Type: Trad
FA: Kjell Swedin and Ray Ringle
Page Views: 15,919 total · 75/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Nov 10, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


For everyone (myself included) who thinks Indian Creek ratings are generally soft...well, jump on this one.

Though the crux is short, it is quite desperate and comes at you right at the end where the splitter crack pinches to tips with no feet. Just try clipping the anchors without grabbing them! The crux section is short enough though that it's just as easy to lead and aid the finish if you need to.

I've heard you can set a toprope on this by swinging over from "3 Strikes You're Out" which is immediately to the right.


I would say doubles in sizes of yellow aliens through red camalot, with triples of #.5 and #.75 camalots. Bring a green alien or blue TCU for the finish.
Max Schon
Max Schon  
I tr'd the extension this weekend. I believe its called Aire-Sweden (.13b). The crux is ultra-desparate arete slapping while crimping the crack. I think its only seen one ascent. Definitely worth tr'ing. We rigged the tr from three strikes. Jan 13, 2004
If I'm not mistaken, the FA of the Air-Sweden extension was climbed by the late "Pat" who was killed in a tragic f*ck-up in the Needles. Jan 15, 2004
Max Schon
Max Schon  
Placing gear on this climb is strenuous; I would recommend the following, in order: one yellow alien (or two if you're paranoid about falling on a single one); one #2 Friend; two .75 camalots; one .5 camalot; and one more yellow alien or .4 camalot; a green alien to aid the last move if you can't clip the chains. Apr 20, 2004
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Great line that gets progressively harder - the finger stacks get you pumped for the crux at the top. Good gear the whole way so go for it! Jan 25, 2006
m-earle   USA
i got a cam in at the last good ringlock 15' below the anchor and just went for it. i imagine it would be quite difficult to place gear near the top. Nov 7, 2006
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I'm able to get gear in when the crack tapers down to fingers before the anchor. There are actually decent openings in the crack for your feet there as well. I would not be too excited about running it out 15-feet to the anchors. Most admirable though! Mar 1, 2009
Kjell Swedin and Ray Ringle May 10, 2009
just curious if any one has climbed rednekk justice in escalante canyon these 2 climbs are a simular size with comparable steepness, and i was curious if they climbed simular depite rednekk being called 10 plus Mar 5, 2011
Dustin B
Dustin B   Steamboat
Quite a bit different than rednekk. The meat of rednekk is reletavly short and its stout climbing between small pod features. This one is more consistantly splitter without the pods and changes sizes a bit more. To me they don't climb similar, and even though rednekk is 10+ I bet I'll send swedin first. Mar 6, 2011

to me they feel pretty similar. swedin might be a touch harder. Mar 7, 2011
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
Sam takes a ride on this fine splitter

youtube.com/watch?v=w1Hkxaj… Dec 9, 2011
If your fingers fit it just right, then the crux might only be the sustained stacks. The thin section at the top took awesome finger locks for me, and the hardest part of clipping was just the lack of feet. Nov 26, 2012
It felt like 12b to me. Probably 5.11 if you can get thin hands in 0.75. May 8, 2016
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
Don't cheat by climbing the face holds and giant ledge on the right. Get full value from the perfect finger splitter from the bottom. Sincerely, a guy who did this on TR. Apr 11, 2018
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
Pretty cruiser if you have 0.4 camalot size fingers and know how to ring lock Apr 12, 2018
kalockwood   SLC, UT
Fun route. I would say it's 12a if there are already draws hanging on the chains, but it's 12b if you have to clip a draw on the chains. Silly but it makes a huge difference. It would be a lot easier if the chains were located to the left of the crack due to the slight offset, but leaving them on the right keeps the face clear for people doing the extension. Cool climb. Apr 16, 2018