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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Kjell Swedin and Ray Ringle
Page Views: 14,344 total, 73/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Nov 10, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

For everyone (myself included) who thinks Indian Creek ratings are generally soft...well, jump on this one.

Though the crux is short, it is quite desperate and comes at you right at the end where the splitter crack pinches to tips with no feet. Just try clipping the anchors without grabbing them! The crux section is short enough though that it's just as easy to lead and aid the finish if you need to.

I've heard you can set a toprope on this by swinging over from "3 Strikes You're Out" which is immediately to the right.

Protection

I would say doubles in sizes of yellow aliens through red camalot, with triples of #.5 and #.75 camalots. Bring a green alien or blue TCU for the finish.
Raddam6
Salt Lake
Raddam6   Salt Lake
It felt like 12b to me. Probably 5.11 if you can get thin hands in 0.75. May 8, 2016
If your fingers fit it just right, then the crux might only be the sustained stacks. The thin section at the top took awesome finger locks for me, and the hardest part of clipping was just the lack of feet. Nov 26, 2012
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
Sam takes a ride on this fine splitter

youtube.com/watch?v=w1Hkxaj… Dec 9, 2011
slim

  5.12-
slim    
  5.12-
to me they feel pretty similar. swedin might be a touch harder. Mar 7, 2011
Dustin B
Steamboat
Dustin B   Steamboat
Quite a bit different than rednekk. The meat of rednekk is reletavly short and its stout climbing between small pod features. This one is more consistantly splitter without the pods and changes sizes a bit more. To me they don't climb similar, and even though rednekk is 10+ I bet I'll send swedin first. Mar 6, 2011
just curious if any one has climbed rednekk justice in escalante canyon these 2 climbs are a simular size with comparable steepness, and i was curious if they climbed simular depite rednekk being called 10 plus Mar 5, 2011
Kjell Swedin and Ray Ringle May 10, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I'm able to get gear in when the crack tapers down to fingers before the anchor. There are actually decent openings in the crack for your feet there as well. I would not be too excited about running it out 15-feet to the anchors. Most admirable though! Mar 1, 2009
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
i got a cam in at the last good ringlock 15' below the anchor and just went for it. i imagine it would be quite difficult to place gear near the top. Nov 7, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.12a
C Miller   CA  
  5.12a
Great line that gets progressively harder - the finger stacks get you pumped for the crux at the top. Good gear the whole way so go for it! Jan 25, 2006
Max Schon
  5.12b
Max Schon  
  5.12b
Placing gear on this climb is strenuous; I would recommend the following, in order: one yellow alien (or two if you're paranoid about falling on a single one); one #2 Friend; two .75 camalots; one .5 camalot; and one more yellow alien or .4 camalot; a green alien to aid the last move if you can't clip the chains. Apr 20, 2004
If I'm not mistaken, the FA of the Air-Sweden extension was climbed by the late "Pat" who was killed in a tragic f*ck-up in the Needles. Jan 15, 2004
Max Schon
  5.12b
Max Schon  
  5.12b
I tr'd the extension this weekend. I believe its called Aire-Sweden (.13b). The crux is ultra-desparate arete slapping while crimping the crack. I think its only seen one ascent. Definitely worth tr'ing. We rigged the tr from three strikes. Jan 13, 2004