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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,764 total, 40/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the third of the left facing corner liebacks on Battle of the Bulge Buttress. This route is directly above the Donnelly Canyon parking area at the point where Battle of the Bulge curves around into Donnelly Canyon.

If you've done Black Corner and Battle of the Bulge, the drill should be familiar. Boulder up to the bottom of the corner proper, place some gear as high as you can reach, and go for it. As with Black Corner, this route has rests.

Protection

1 1.75 friend, 2 0.5 camalots, 4 0.75 camalots, 4 #2 friends, 1 #1 camalot, 3 #2 camalots
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
 
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
 
Ya wasn't just a straight layback, crux is the thinner than my hands beginning: then it opens up into thin hands and thinish toe jams mixed to the top. Don't have to straight layback and instead can insecure jam if ur pumped at the end of a day like me Apr 2, 2016
I think this is a fair bit easier than Battle of the Bulge. After the first 20 feet or so its pretty much all red camalots with some slightly larger jams for rests (you can slip a couple gold camalots in up higher). Really fun. Oct 20, 2008
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
10+ ???
You must be hella tough!! If the cave route is 10+, this is
definitely 11. Sweet line. May 12, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10+
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10+
stem it, jam it, or lay back. steming it is the most dificult way
good for setting a tr on swedin ringle Jan 26, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.11b
C Miller   CA  
  5.11b
A very good pitch of nothing but liebacking that tests your endurance (remember not to put your gear too high). Jan 25, 2006
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
This pitch protects well using just Camalots too. 4(.75), about 6-7(#1) and 1 or 2(#2). Very sustained. Good hand jams halfway lead to more thin hands/liebacking. Apr 15, 2002