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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Antoine Savelli
Page Views: 3,914 total, 33/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Jan 15, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a really long right facing corner. Start up a little technical crux and fight up to a rest on a sandy slope. Good .12- climbing to here. Then sprint up a double overhanging corner to a couple hand jams at the anchor. All fingers. Mega 5.12.

Location

Towards the left end of BB Buttress. Just past Disco Machine Gun and a cool juniper (the x-mas tree?).

Protection

In TCU-speak, I used 2 purples, 14 blues, 6 yellows, 1 orange, 2 reds.

Photos

Looks sick! Smaller fingers would definately help on this one....very continuous Oct 22, 2011
chris Kalous  
 
I agree that the crack gets a little bigger. The little blue camalots pick up the slack quite well, too. Jul 8, 2009
Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
Floater Bloom   Flagstaff AZ
Hey Chris ,thanks for lowering that anchor. One of the most dramatic climbing moments i've witnessed was a friend of mine onsighting this beast. He was resting his shoulder on that first big block of choss when it broke. He fell and ripped about 5 tcu's before a green alien held. He probably fell about 50 feet and technically blew the onsight.. So although the crack appears to not change size it actually gets a little bigger as you go, so i suggest about 7 blue tcus followed by 7 green aliens, they are just a tad bigger.Props to anyone leading this route. Feb 22, 2008
chris Kalous  
 
I submitted the above route because it deserves some traffic as it is totally classic and never gets done, while poor Ruby's gets overworked every decent weekend. The dirty little secret is that Christmas Tree is probably just as difficult or even harder than Ruby's (of course, so are a lot of 5.12s in the Creek...shhh!) I replaced the anchor and moved it down a little off of a rope eating ledge, so it's slightly shorter than the book suggests (it only eliminated a bit of 5.8 sandy groveling). This route will be easier the smaller your digits are. Good luck - gun for the handjams next to the anchor- oops, I've already said too much... Jan 15, 2008