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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Swedin T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Elbow Vices T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alan Lester, Chip Chace
Page Views: 6,027 total · 30/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 31, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Ouch. This is the obvious and painful looking fingers crack just left of the Cave Route. The first 35-40 feet are tough, but do-able, with the assorted features on the face for feet. The last fifteen feet to the anchors are just incredibly hard, a fingertips crack with very few foot features. I still haven't figured out this crux.

Protection [Suggest Change]

small stuff- nothing bigger than 1.5

Photos

The crux is easy: Jam really hard in the first 40' so that your fingers are numb by the time you get to the rest before the crux. Rest at the last footholds, bite your tongue, paste your feet and f--ing crank to the chains! Nov 14, 2002
Andy Johnson
  5.12c
Andy Johnson  
  5.12c
I think one star is harsh. This is a fantastic climb if you are climbing at the grade. By the way I definately am not climbing at the grade. This thing is hard and placing gear is really tough. Jun 21, 2004
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
No where near a clean lead, I ended up aiding the upper half.
But. . . 2 Blue aliens and 6 or so green is all you need for this pitch!!
My fingers still hurt.. . Sep 5, 2006
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
tough moves getting off the ground. decent fingers for the middle, one or two foot rests, but the last 15 feet the crack goes back to tips. if you send this route, dont expect to have anything left resembling fingers. Oct 30, 2006
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
The crux isn't hard to figure out . . . Just hard to DO!!!
Made it up this time w/out aid but still took a few for the team!!
Decided to sprint the last 10ft to the anchs... desperation set in, fingers came out and, I went down!! Fun ride though!!
Save this for the last climb of the trip or your fingers won't be worth shit for the next route!! Mar 13, 2007
In the 1988 American Alpine Journal, Eric Bjornstad contributed that this route was put up by Alan Lester and Chip Chace. Nov 26, 2009
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12b/c
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12b/c
I'm not sure where you would place two blue Aliens, maybe at the start if your short? Green Aliens and .3 Camalots are all you need for this climb. I think 7 or 8 will sew it up. Mar 22, 2010
I wanted to try this on TR but really couldnt get my fingers in much.....i thought id break em if i fell...SUPER hard for big fingers....or im just lame..5.13 tips for me Oct 22, 2011
Tommy L-D  
 
Destroyed my fingers, never were the same for the rest of the trip.

...But it hurt sooo good Jan 26, 2012
More like digital bleedout than digital readout. Shredded my fingers.....not fun! Apr 17, 2012
Mike broad
Tucson, AZ
 
Mike broad   Tucson, AZ
 
For the last part before the chains, save a x4 .3 (or probably a green alien). The regular .3 c4 is slightly too big there and doesn't fit! Oct 2, 2015
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
^ sounds like a blue metolius would be ideal Oct 2, 2015
Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
 
Luke Mehall   Durango, Colorado
 
Per usual the beta in the book is off. Heavy on .3 camalots. Only a couple places where you can get a .4 in. Brutal line, but there are certainly more harsh finger cracks out there. Nov 6, 2015

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