Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Pat Savageau
Page Views: 11,395 total · 94/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Instead of clipping the anchors on Swedin-Ringle, nest some (good) gear and climb the arete until you can rejoin the crack higher up. The arete is tenuous and any fall, especially at the crux, has the potential to be a big one! Finish in the steep, slightly crumbly right-arching fingers to thin hands crack. Exciting and spectacular!


Some will recognize this route from the Parallelojams video; most others will note that it is the oft-chalked extension to the prominent Swedin-Ringle. Lower with a 60m rope. The fixed "hardware" was pieces of static rope and carabiners in April of 2008 that was probably old.


No bolts unless you clip the Swedin-Ringle anchor (apparently this is a taboo if leading the entire route; pretend the anchor doesn't exist and forget I mentioned it). Gear from tiny (.33 or black Aliens) to 1 inch. Doubles or triples of finger to hand pieces are useful. Note that it is possible but difficult to place gear during the crux, but the fall is clean if a bit intimidating. Probably on the soft side of the 'R' rating.


The FA was by Pat Savageau (his last name is often misspelled). Apr 19, 2012
If anyone out there knew my son Pat Savageau, who did FA of Air Swedin, or if you have photos of him climbing, my family and I would deeply appreciate you contacting us with any memories. It's been almost 12 years since he died and we still miss him every day. If you would like to view a memorial I create for him, go to my website, annsavageau.com, and click on Memorial on the home page. Ann Savageau Apr 19, 2012
Apologies for misspelling his name when I added this. Dec 29, 2012