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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dogs in Space T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Man Cave 5.10, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Also Rises (Finger Lickin' Good var.), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Moon Also Rises (original var.), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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My awkward battle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New World Order T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stress Puppet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Think Again T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft |
| FA: | Zach Smith & Justin Cassels |
| Page Views: | 1,045 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Sydnor on Feb 4, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect
Details
No toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Beginning March 1-late July, the public will be asked to avoid climbing or hiking in areas where birds are known to nest. The climbing areas that are historically known to have nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as:
June 11, 2020 avoidance update:
The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall, and the multiple Meat Walls.
BLM biologists will continue monitoring efforts throughout the 2020 season, and the BLM will notify the public once young birds have fledged. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated when the avoidance areas are lifted. The BLM expects the avoidance areas to be lifted prior to the beginning of the fall climbing season.
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: jbyrd@blm.gov
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Beginning March 1-late July, the public will be asked to avoid climbing or hiking in areas where birds are known to nest. The climbing areas that are historically known to have nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as:
June 11, 2020 avoidance update:
The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall, and the multiple Meat Walls.
BLM biologists will continue monitoring efforts throughout the 2020 season, and the BLM will notify the public once young birds have fledged. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated when the avoidance areas are lifted. The BLM expects the avoidance areas to be lifted prior to the beginning of the fall climbing season.
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: jbyrd@blm.gov
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
An adventure of a route, with everything from delicate face climbing above small stoppers, to hands, thin hands, rattly fingers, and finally a nice section of fingers with just enough stances to the anchor. There is a little suspect rock and every bit of the 150 ft is well-earned. 3 stars for a very unique Indian Creek experience, but if you're not into this type of thing you may think otherwise. The name (misspelled in Bloom's book) is a reference to the disemboweling ritual suicide originally found in Samurai culture. "We thought the feature could fall off," Zach says. Hopefully not!
Bouldery moves get you to, and just above, the fixed pin. Place critical small stopper(s) in a small constriction (I used a #5 off-set HB, with a #6 BD microstopper on top of it) before crimping and smearing slightly up and left to gain the main crack system. I think this entire first section constitutes the technical crux, but there is definitely a little more umph to be had up high. Enjoy the ride!
Bouldery moves get you to, and just above, the fixed pin. Place critical small stopper(s) in a small constriction (I used a #5 off-set HB, with a #6 BD microstopper on top of it) before crimping and smearing slightly up and left to gain the main crack system. I think this entire first section constitutes the technical crux, but there is definitely a little more umph to be had up high. Enjoy the ride!
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