Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Zach Smith & Justin Cassels
Page Views: 698 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Feb 4, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

An adventure of a route, with everything from delicate face climbing above small stoppers, to hands, thin hands, rattly fingers, and finally, a nice section of fingers with just enough stances to the anchor. There is a little suspect rock, and every bit of the 150 ft is well-earned. 3 stars for a very unique Indian Creek experience, but if you're not into this type of thing, you may think otherwise. The name (misspelled in Bloom's book) is a reference to the disemboweling ritual suicide, originally found in Samurai culture. "We thought the feature could fall off," Zach says. Hopefully not!

Bouldery moves get you to, and just above, the fixed pin. Place critical small stopper(s) in a small constriction (I used a #5 off-set HB, with a #6 BD microstopper on top of it) before crimping and smearing slightly up and left to gain the main crack system. I think this entire first section constitutes the technical crux, but there is definitely a little more umph to be had up high. Enjoy the ride!

Location

In between Digital Readout and Ruby's Cafe. The fixed pin at the start is obvious, and the anchor is visible way up there.

Protection

Fixed pin, selection of small stoppers, and cams to #3 BD. Bloom's gear recommendation is relatively accurate. I used less 1s and 2s, and added an extra from BD .75 on down and was happy to have them. 2 ropes mandatory to get down!

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