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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Air Swedin T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dogs in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Elbow Vices T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Man Cave 5.10, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Also Rises (Finger Lickin' Good var.), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Moon Also Rises (original var.), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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My awkward battle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New World Order T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Redacted S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Road to Knowhere T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Schrödinger's Cat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shadows of Tomorrow T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sheila Lonestar aka Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stella T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Stress Puppet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Think Again T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Think Pink (Gone/Fell Down) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle (P2 12+, 90') T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Warm-up (JAFO) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wiggins Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Zack "Bones" Smith & Justin Cassels |
| Page Views: | 1,922 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Sydnor on Feb 4, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
An adventure of a route, with everything from delicate face climbing above small stoppers, to hands, thin hands, rattly fingers, and finally a nice section of fingers with just enough stances to the anchor. There is a little suspect rock and every bit of the 150 ft is well-earned. 3 stars for a very unique Indian Creek experience, but if you're not into this type of thing you may think otherwise. The name (misspelled in Bloom's book) is a reference to the disemboweling ritual suicide originally found in Samurai culture. "We thought the feature could fall off," Zack says. Hopefully not!
Bouldery moves get you to, and just above, the fixed pin. Place critical small stopper(s) in a small constriction (I used a #5 off-set HB, with a #6 BD microstopper on top of it) before crimping and smearing slightly up and left to gain the main crack system. I think this entire first section constitutes the technical crux, but there is definitely a little more umph to be had up high. Enjoy the ride!
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