Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Sam Feuerborn & Justin Mages
Page Views: 557 total · 15/month
Shared By: Sam Feuerborn on Nov 20, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Despite what Bloom says in every edition of his guide books this route is not 5.11 and until recently did not have anchors. However, it's a super varied climb with everything, face holds, tips locks, chicken wings and all those in between sizes. Still a few crumbly edges that will clean up with time but on nice varnished rock!

Location

Just to the left of Hole in the Wall, start carefully up a crumbly pillar (A .4, #4 and #3 protect this fairly well)

Protection

There is a bolt protecting the crux. Recommended gear is something along the lines of: 1 blue alien, 1 green alien, 2x .3, 3x .4, 3x orange metolius (.5's are super tight), 1x .75, 2-3x #1, 2x #2, 3x #3, 3x #4, 2x #5, 1x #6 (all in camalots unless otherwise specified)

Photos

Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
This might be my favorite route name at the creek. Nov 21, 2015
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
  5.11
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
  5.11
Chop the bolt! Jun 3, 2016
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
  5.12
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
  5.12
Hahaha the toprope tough guy has spoken. Time to lead it Nick! Jun 6, 2016