Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Sam Feuerborn & Justin Mages
Page Views: 649 total · 15/month
Shared By: Sam Feuerborn on Nov 20, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Despite what Bloom says in every edition of his guide books this route is not 5.11 and until recently did not have anchors. However, it's a super varied climb with everything, face holds, tips locks, chicken wings and all those in between sizes. Still a few crumbly edges that will clean up with time but on nice varnished rock!

Location

Just to the left of Hole in the Wall, start carefully up a crumbly pillar (A .4, #4 and #3 protect this fairly well)

Protection

There is a bolt protecting the crux. Recommended gear is something along the lines of: 1 blue alien, 1 green alien, 2x .3, 3x .4, 3x orange metolius (.5's are super tight), 1x .75, 2-3x #1, 2x #2, 3x #3, 3x #4, 2x #5, 1x #6 (all in camalots unless otherwise specified)

Photos