Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bob Rotert and Steve Hong
Page Views: 9,503 total · 45/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Nov 10, 2001 with updates from justino
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


The best corner on a wall with countless superb corners. Just left of Black Corner, this climb is extremely hand-size dependent...it is at just that point where many people can get tight hand jams (i.e. feels 5.11ish) while others will need to lieback forever (thus 5.12-). There are a few rests on this one, so be on the lookout for features to stem to. Milk the high rest for all its worth because the crux section begins just afterwards.


A whole mess of #2 friends (though you certainly don't need the recommended number from the guide- 12!) or a mix of #.75 and #1 camalots. You can use bigger pieces in a few pods. You'll need 2 ropes for this one or alternatively a 70 meter can work, but tie knots in the ends. 
I onsighted this some years ago. It was my best effort of the trip. The rest high is a bleb on the right side that you can stem and plaster your body in with. The section afterwards just rejects a #1 camalot-I got one in with two cams engaged and decided to go for it. Best to have a 3/4 camalot ready, otherwise you risk a 40 footer getting through. One of those situations where breakfast just stays down. Mar 5, 2002
Whats a bleb? Aug 28, 2004
The term bleb generically means an inclusion, usually rounded, of one material within another. It is used alot in mineralogical and petrological descriptions. Mar 8, 2005
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
What does it take to earn 4-stars? This route has stellor rock, sustained jamming, a distinct crux UP HIGH, length and a fun (not giveaway) finish. Give it the 4-stars it deserves. There are not many better corners at the Creek. Oct 16, 2007
FA= Bob Rotert and Steve Hong May 10, 2009
George K. Watson
Nederland, CO
George K. Watson   Nederland, CO
An incredible route. 11 #2s Jeebus. Jul 6, 2010
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Absolutely amazing route. My hat is off to Bob and Steve on this one! Description says 2 ropes required but a 70m will reach the ground... barely! Took lots of #1 &.75 camalots plus a .5 camalot or two at the end. Oct 20, 2011
Kevin Volkening  
11+ NOT 12- Feb 8, 2012
F@#$%& Great route! I have big hands and its a lot of laying back. A very hard send just due to the endurance needed. Ladies don't be afraid to get on this one!! Nov 9, 2012
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Fantastic route. The crack just barely accepts man hands for thin hand jams. I didn't use a single thumbstack but the right foot really got worked on this one. Mar 5, 2016
Nicholas Ryan Valoff
Durango, CO
Nicholas Ryan Valoff   Durango, CO
I placed somewhere around 8 red camalots on this route but I brought up 12 and it was really nice to not worry about running low on that size, especially toward the top of the initial corner. 4-5 green camalots, 8-10 reds, and 2 golds will be plenty for the bottom part. I also placed 2 purple and an additional gold at the top, mostly because I was pumped out of my mind and thought I might potentially blow the final bit. Excellent endurance climb, for me onsighting was a spiritual experience. Jan 2, 2018