Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Rick Wyatt
Page Views: 20,484 total · 95/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Oct 2, 2006 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

128 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This line is located near the left side of the Battle of the Bulge Wall and would be hard to miss.

Start underneath a one-foot roof and climb a wide-hands crack for 15ft. to the roof. Be careful of the loose flakes inside this initial crack. Pull over the roof on fists to wide fists. Battle up the crack for another 30ft. until you can get a knee in. Work up the crack as it gradually widens to chain anchors.

I got some key beta afterwards from Vera the offwidth master, who recommended climbing the route in sticky rubber approach shoes. I had a hard time keeping my feet from slipping and I agree that approach shoes would give you that extra little width for good foot jams.

Location Suggest change

On the left end of Battle of the Bulge Wall, immediately left of Our Piece of the Real Estate.

Protection Suggest change

(based on the old camalot size) #3.5, (3) #4, (3)4.5, (3) #5 camalot. New #6 Camalots are good for the top, too.