Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Rich Wyatt
Page Views: 16,121 total · 108/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


87 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This line is located near the left side of the Battle of the Bulge Wall and would be hard to miss.

Start underneath a one-foot roof and climb a wide-hands crack for 15ft. to the roof. Be careful of the loose flakes inside this initial crack. Pull over the roof on fists to wide fists. Battle up the crack for another 30ft. until you can get a knee in. Work up the crack as it gradually widens to chain anchors.

I got some key beta afterwards from Vera the offwidth master, who recommended climbing the route in sticky rubber approach shoes. I had a hard time keeping my feet from slipping and I agree that approach shoes would give you that extra little width for good foot jams.

Location

On the left end of Battle of the Bulge Wall, immediately left of Our Piece of the Real Estate.

Protection

(based on the old camalot size) #3.5, (3) #4, (3)4.5, (3) #5 camalot. New #6 Camalots are good too for the top. There's also a single piton bolt almost 1/2 way up, just before you can get your knee in the crack. FYI - The new #6 camalots are too large for the crack.
Danny Inman
Arvada
  5.11
Danny Inman   Arvada
  5.11
Getting established above the roof was burley, for me it was very rattly fists. Sure one can lay it back, but why deprive yourself? As my first "real" desert offwidth, I learned a lot on this thing. Very different technique required than other offwidths that I have done. Suffice to say, my hip flexors and abs got a full workout. I will return after my technique improves. Also, as stated in the description, the new BD #6 definitely does not fit here. Dec 6, 2006
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11
This is a great route and a real test of your offwidth skills. If your hands are to small to get fists over the roof then your in for some real trouble. After fighting your way past the pin you should be able to get your knee in and finally rest (kind of). Have fun. Nov 26, 2007
I went up there with just two new No. 5s (Camalots) and was wishing I had a No. 6 for the last 10-15 feet. Those No. 5s were tipped out for much of the last part. I have a hard time believing that a No. 6 would not fit up there.

This is a hard and interesting route requiring multiple OW techniques. Apr 3, 2008
Bart Paull
Golden, CO
Bart Paull   Golden, CO
The gear beta for the route isn't totally correct. You can easily fit a #6 Wild Country Friend or new #6 Camalot in the crack for about half the route. If you only have old #5 Camalots they will be very tipped out. I would recommend two #6 Friends or Camalots. You can also use #2 Bigbros for much of the route, and there are a few spots where a #3 Bigbro will work. Oct 23, 2008
slim

  5.11a/b
slim    
  5.11a/b
yeah, when i did it a 6 friend was useful for a lot of the upper half, particularly the last stretch to the anchors. definitely worth bringing. i thought the crux was the roof. i had heard it was fists, but it was off fists for me and required a change in plan-of-attack. Oct 24, 2008
I agree with the guys above, two WC#6 or new camalot #6 are nice to have. The guidebook seems to have given bad presendence on giving detailed gear-beta for routes obviously not done by the author. Nov 8, 2008
FA= Rich Wyatt May 10, 2009
A. Wolaver
Golden, CO
  5.11
A. Wolaver   Golden, CO
  5.11
One of the coolest desert OWs ever. I'm not sure why the pin remains on this climb. Not only does it mar the climb aesthetically, but it often causes the rope to run a little odd considering the gear is deep and the pin is about 1.5' outside of the crack. Don't clip it! Dec 4, 2009
slim

  5.11a/b
slim    
  5.11a/b
i actually kind of find the pin handy, as it pulls the rope out of the way for a little while. curious that it is there though, maybe the FA party didn't have much for wide gear. if i remember correctly, the pin comes before you can get your knee in, so drilling it on lead must have been exciting. Dec 4, 2009
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
 
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
 
next time 3#4, 4#5,2#6 Oct 21, 2013
Had only a double rope with me that got stuck between my knees or foot. Just curious for solutions for not getting rope stuck between my feet or knees. No reason to give up, got it OS. I pushed up my # 5 cam when having a bomber kneelock. I used #2, #3, #4, two # 5's. Did not used the pin (bolt). Dec 25, 2013
FOUND: #4 Camalot. Maybe on Big Baby? Friday, 3/9/18? PM me with the colors! Mar 13, 2018