Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Air Swedin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dogs in Space T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Elbow Vices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Also Rises, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Think Pink T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warm-up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,109 total, 16/month
Shared By: Charlie S on Mar 18, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Just to the left of the Warm-Up is a wide fists crack, turning into an offwidth halfway up. This is The Jagged Wedge. A fun route, but bring your lead head! See beta below.

Location

Left side of the large "flake" the the Warm-up climbs.

Protection

Start out with a few BD #3s and a #4s, depending on your comfort level. Next the offwidth starts at #5s, progresses to a shoddy #6, and then too wide to take any other cams. Climb about 20-30 feet above your last piece using the offwidth for leg jams, acquire a small ledge, traverse left for a solid #2 placement, then move right on top of the gigantic flake for the anchors.
michael s...
Denver, CO
michael s...   Denver, CO
The offwidth is relatively short. 15 feet or so. Then you are in a chimney. You would have to try pretty hard to fall back in there. May 22, 2015
Fists to fun off-width moves to a good chimney. Placed a #6 then #5 camalot off the ledge, then nothing in the chimney, but it is quite secure if you get in it. Might be able to get gear in deep. I suck at OWs and this felt plenty safe to lead. Nov 5, 2014
This route has really fun, thoughtful climbing. I think you could probably use a blue and a gold BigBro if you have them. Make sure you don't kick out your #6 as you climb past it. Mar 18, 2014
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
ok yer right not chopped in half.. but you would get hurt pretty bad. set the #6 kind of low ware it is good then a blue Big Bro fits really well then worm in for six feet ware a #1 crack is squeeze on up to a real cool top out.. thanks for posting this route.. it was one of the first OW squeeze's that shut me down like 3 times before i got it right. and it defiantly wasn't the last.. cheers DF Oct 10, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
I doubt chopped in half, but thanks for the input. Had I known there was pro way in the back I would have ventured there. From my vantage point it appeared to be flat the whole way, and wasn't interested in a fall inside and the subsequent body wedge.

What sizes exist way back? Jul 15, 2012
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
the beta posted for this climb is crazy! stay in the crack do not go left that would kill you if you blew that move. think choped in half. after your#6 dive in to the hart of this flake an use the crack in the back.. i have put in a lot time trying to figuer out how to climb this thing safley .. stay in the crack. May 2, 2012