Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Steve Hong 1977
Page Views: 14,121 total · 58/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Oct 30, 2001 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route follows an obvious right-facing corner through a slight bulge (hence the name). It is easy to identify as you walk along the base of the wall, and can be picked out from the Donnelly Canyon parking lot. Look for a right-facing corner that starts atop a block. It is vertical for a bit, then goes to less than vertical before it heads through the slight bulge. The route has two sets of anchors: climbing to the upper set is less contrived but the upper part of the route is slightly lower quality. I listed the rack for climbing to the lower anchors.

The crack is a perfect #0.75 Camalot or #2 Friend size all the way through the bulge. Get in the lieback and SPRINT! The clock is ticking, just plug in the next cam and go go go. I'm sure those with superior techinique or smaller hands will be able to jam more than I could. Once over the bulge, the crack widens slightly. For the liebackers, just pretend the bulge isn't there and you'll be fine.

This is a great first 5.11 lead as minimal thought and technique is required. After you get this route dialed, head to Black Corner or Three Strikes You're Out and go for the onsight.

Protection

3 #0.75 Camalots, 7 #2 Friends, 2 #1 Camalots, 1 #2.5 Friend

Photos