Type: Trad, 112 ft (34 m)
GPS: 38.03837, -109.54917
FA: Pamela Shanti Pack & Devin Fin, 2019
Page Views: 1,304 total · 24/month
Shared By: Mark Thomas on May 3, 2021
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher
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Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Do you love wide? Do you like endless #6s? Then this climb is for you! A fun flare with a #2-#3 crack in the back takes you to a mini roof where you must switch sides while jamming through #4s that quickly widen to #5s. Milk the rest above the lip because from here you have nearly 100' of sustained 5.5-7" crack climbing! The crack quickly pinches down to a #1 size just before the anchors, with some stemming & optional wide crack to the left to help de-pump.

There is an optional short pitch that continues above.

1x70m rope barely gets you down from the lower anchors.

Pamela named this route after one of her beloved cats that has since passed on.

FYI: For those still using the Bloom guide, this was marked in there as an unnamed route done by Jay Anderson. This is wrong. Jay confirmed this. Pamela & Devin put in the bolts now there. The start used to be guarded by a precarious leaning pillar that split and the top 1/2 fell before Pamela & Devin went to work. Since 2019, a middle chunk has fallen off leaving a longer flare to climb, and the final leaning 1/3 may one day go but seems pretty stable right now.

Location Suggest change

This is the first route left of Think Pink, marked by a detached pillar that is popping out from a flare left behind.

Protection Suggest change

1-2x#1, 1x#2, 2x#3-4, 3x#5, 4-5x#6. Use 1x#2-3 at the start. Save the other 'small' cams for the finish.

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Photos

Looking down from the anchors.
Looking down from the anchors.
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Looking down the crack from about 3/5 up the route.
Looking down the crack from about 3/5 up the ro…
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The rope gets VERY heavy for sliding cams. My system of keeping a lead cam on a leash and sliding a lower cam attached to the rope worked well. Having 2 cams was nice when they became baggy, as you might be a ways out from your last #6.
The rope gets VERY heavy for sliding cams. My s…
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The crack is beginning to pinch down, and a thin-but-widening crack and stemming options appear!
The crack is beginning to pinch down, and a thi…
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This flare was a pretty fun warmup before the wide.
This flare was a pretty fun warmup before the w…
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The route.
The route.
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Le Route
Le Route
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Pamela in the flare, just below the roof. If you don't have meat hooks for hands, this next bit may be the crux for you.
Pamela in the flare, just below the roof. If yo…
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Pamela at the base of Stella. This entire flare used to be filled by a detached column. In 2018/2019, the upper half fell off, opening up the line to a sane FA...
Pamela at the base of Stella. This entire flare…
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