Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 6,171 total · 40/month
Shared By: SirVato on May 5, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


292 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a good warm up route.
Thin hands move off the ground to a good jam where you can stop to place gear. Climb up in to the corner and wrestle with the "Railroad Tracks"
There are a couple of good stem rests. Once the crack on the right widens you can move in to it and jam to the top.

Location

One of the first routes when you get to the base of the cliff, It is a few lines to the Left of Swedin-Ringle

Protection

Camalots 2 #1s, 2 #2s, 2 #3s Maybe 1 #3.5
A yellow or green alien for the corner if you like

Photos

Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
5.10
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
5.10
Great route with fun movement at the start. Feb 3, 2007
fun start, good times Jul 11, 2007
Bear paws beware, first time around I did some 11c face/arete climbing to avoid the thin left crack. For me the the only way to do it straight in is with a footless move from a ringlock and a rattly fingerlock to a thin hand jam. My friend who is tall and have thinner hands than I have found the upper part harder then the start. Dec 13, 2007
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
Get on Mystery Machine after this! Oct 28, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Thuggy for the low difficulty. What can I say about such a short route? Fun for no longer than it was, but not worth cueing up for unless you finish on Mystery Machine and head up to the top. Apr 23, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11-
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11-
My fat (and at the time, well-taped) hands suggest 11- for the first two moves. Otherwise it gets easier and tons of fun as you crawl higher.

SHAMELESS BETA SPOILER: Keep in the cracks if'n you wanna maintain style points. Otherwise, treat the generously-featured corner as a giant stem box to knock a grade off and give you ample photo ops... May 21, 2010
Fun warm up. Oct 30, 2012
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
Pretty stellar climb overall and Mystery Machine shouldn't be missed! Dec 22, 2017