Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Lisa Gnade
Page Views: 19,797 total · 137/month
Shared By: m-earle on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A thin start leads to changing corners, which puts you under an intimidating roof. A series of badass moves sets you up for thin laybacking to the anchors. Very sustained!

Location

This incredible line lies inbetween "The Last Battle," and Digital Readout.

Protection

6 or so yellow Aliens, a few green.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
For those of you who know (and hopefully love) the colorful desert hermit/IC climber extraordinaire Alf Randell, or "Alf", you will appreciate this vignette:

Apparently, Alf had done this climb in the dark past with stoppers and tri-cams. Think 1970s. Think bad-ass. And think of my friend, Herb Crimp, a burly climber in his own right, but a modern child weaned on SLCDs and sticky rubber. Touting the more illustrious ascent, Alf guilt-tripped Herb into leading this route. Herb flailed, but flailed respectively, eventually gaining the anchors. Upon lowering, Herb complained, "just because Alf leads something in 1975 with stoppers and tri-cams doesn't mean I have to lead it."

Wise words. You had to be there. Apr 11, 2007
alf
alf  
I first tried rubies when friend 1-4 with no half sizes were available. I took one fall at the crux during my lead attempt, and top-roped it with no trouble [around 1980]. I am pleased by the solid grains of truth to be had from the comments i have read here. Thank you all for your fairness and kindness! Jan 8, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
what a sweet route! I aided the line to put up a toprope and give it a go....barely missed the upper crux my first go! Much more managable than i imagined it would be, and so much fun locking in the knee-bar up high! A classic for sure. Mar 31, 2010