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Cave Route

5.10d, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 574 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Battle of the Bulge B…
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Great thin hands crack route hidden behind a large block leaning against the cliff a hundred yards or so left of Battle of the Bulge. Work your feet as you jam up into the darkness, safe with the knowledge that you will indeed find a bolt anchor up there. Look around, a little creativity can aid in the struggle. Be careful when pulling the rope, or the crack will eat it. Bump this two star route up to three on a hot day.

Protection

2 0.5 camalots, 3 0.75 camalots, 5 #2 friends, 2 #1 camalots, 1 2.5 friend

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I loved this climb, My feet fit in perfectly.  But what do I know, I'm 4 yrs old.
[Hide Photo] I loved this climb, My feet fit in perfectly. But what do I know, I'm 4 yrs old.
Cave Route
[Hide Photo] Cave Route
glowin! taken by @ethanmentzerphoto (instagram)
[Hide Photo] glowin! taken by @ethanmentzerphoto (instagram)
Xue on Cave Route on the left, Shuojing on Man Cave on the right
[Hide Photo] Xue on Cave Route on the left, Shuojing on Man Cave on the right
Brette Harrington makes the Cave Route look like a cake walk.<br>
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Photo by danafelthauser.com<br>
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[Hide Photo] Brette Harrington makes the Cave Route look like a cake walk. Photo by danafelthauser.com |
Perfect splitter!
[Hide Photo] Perfect splitter!
in the cave with my son 05
[Hide Photo] in the cave with my son 05
Lance nearing the anchor.
[Hide Photo] Lance nearing the anchor.
Cierra on the Cave Route. Photo: Scott Eubank
[Hide Photo] Cierra on the Cave Route. Photo: Scott Eubank
On a downright hot november day, this route was a pleasure.  One can't even see the anchors from the bottom it's so dark.
[Hide Photo] On a downright hot november day, this route was a pleasure. One can't even see the anchors from the bottom it's so dark.
Greta jamming past the small pod down low. This route favors small hands!
[Hide Photo] Greta jamming past the small pod down low. This route favors small hands!
thin and hard hands
[Hide Photo] thin and hard hands

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan St John
Castle Rock
[Hide Comment] I have larg hands; #3 Camalots is a great jam. I climbed it with 1 #0.75 Camalots and 8 #1 Camalots. The route in my opinion deserves 3 stars. No jamming for me, lay back and stemming. I could not see the anchors until I was able to stem. Despite being relatively short I was worked by the time I reached the stem rest. Nov 19, 2001
[Hide Comment] I'd suggest going with the recommended rack at the top. The size most of the way is bad for both .75 and 1 Camalots - #2 Friends are key.

I'd also agree with Mike - jam this sucker. It's great practice for the size and other climbs where laying back is not an option. Nov 29, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] It can be done on a single green camalot (.75) and then reds (#1) the rest of the way.

Don't ignore the no-hands stemming rests. Apr 18, 2002
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Nice climb with an interesting location - perfect for those warm days. Jan 25, 2006
SirVato SirVato
Boulder
 
[Hide Comment] Or rainy days!! Yeah I agree a single .75 and about 5-6 #1s will sew it up. Sep 18, 2007
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I gave this route 4 stars because it's a great splitter and IT'S IN THE SHADE! It can be sandy and gritty if it hasn't seen traffic since the last storm. Even the most Creek worn hands should take heed. Feb 17, 2008
Todd Glew
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] good warm up for those with big hands wishing to get into the 11s at the creek, in my mind its an 11 for gorilla mits, man those feet are tricky to trust, the hands are okay, but one helluvah route, never climbed in a cave before, so i give it 4 stars for its uniqueness Aug 9, 2008
Jay Samuelson
Colorado
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] This route is amazing - thin hands splitter for 80' is nice enough on it's own, add in the unique location and beautiful setting and you have a 4-star classic on your hands. I used two .75 camelots and probably 5-6 #1's the rest of the way. It does open up a bit at the top, you may feel better with a #2 on your side. How you choose to approach this thing will greatly vary your experience - I had a struggle-fest to the top leading it, but all my friends walked the damn thing just laybacking it the whole way. Can't say enough about this one, definitely do it! Mar 30, 2009
Brian 1
 
[Hide Comment] I have fat hands and this route was very difficult for me. I placed several 0.75 Camalots through the middle section in addition to lots of #1s. #2 Friends would have been a little more convenient but Camalots worked fine. Sep 8, 2010
[Hide Comment] dont wimp out and lie back work the ring locks and thin hands all the way up
bring lots of #1's Oct 23, 2010
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Fun cramming. Beautiful red camalots the whole way, bring 2 yellows and a green (save one yellow for the top). Nice a cool in the sun in a very neat environment. Especially good for small hands people, pretty tight for me. Apr 20, 2012
Trevor
La Grande, OR
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Something about this crack made my toes hurt for days after climbing it. Cool setting but I didn't particularly enjoy the climbing itself all that much. Nov 28, 2015
Sarah Z
Golden
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This route sucked for me. Hurt my toes, I’d recommend a Katana or a moccasin for this the tc pros didn’t have the best toe shape. Cool location though had a picnic in the cave. May 22, 2022
Connor Dobson
Louisville, CO
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Added some thicc mussies to this. Did not have a wrench so the old chains are still up there. Someone should bring a wrench.

Felt pretty hard for the grade for my #3 hands. Didn't place any .5s, there are feet at the start, placed a .75 then fired in #1s until I was at the chains. Felt pretty comparable to three strikes to me imo. Apr 11, 2023
Tomko
SANTA CLARA CA
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely bring 3-4 .75 green cams if you aren't comfortable running it out in sections. It is thin down low, but then thins again just before the halfway point of the route. I used 2x at the start and 2x again in the middle as did everyone else in my party and we were happy to have them. I also used a smaller cam (.4 or .5) at the start. Oct 28, 2024