Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Wilts and Spencer Austin, 1943
Page Views: 254,866 total · 1,260/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jun 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

You can really climb all over the Southeast Buttress. You get the most climbing if you start at it's lowest point, in the middle. Many people start up and to the right a little, which loses some vertical, and the first pitch over there isn't so good.

However you start, after 3 pitches, steadily increasing from 5.3 to 5.6, you'll probably be funneled into a chimney. It can get crowded here, and a backpack can be a real pain. Climb around to the left and it's smooth sailing however.

There are so many options, passing people is generally easy if you're competent at the grade, and there are usually people all over the face.

A spectacular climb not to be missed.

Summit Notes: On crowded days, do not ascend the summit block via the western 4th class chute. Leave that route for folks to descend. Instead when the true summit is in sight, continue climbing up the SE face(~5.5 slab) then hop across to the summit as the party ahead of you descends via the chute.

Descent: Stay high and left (climber's right) and follow the path of least resistance (3rd class, some exposure) to the base of the Eichhorn pinnacle. At that point you'll spot a climbers' trail that takes you back up to the notch that links to the signed 2nd class descent.

Protection

Normal full rack. No huge cams needed.

Photos