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Routes in Cob Rock

Aid Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brownies In The Basin T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corn on the Cob T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Arete V3 6A
Devil's Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
East Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eat Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Eat Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Empor T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Empor Scary Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Face Problem V3 6A
Face Route T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Game, The V16 8C+
Goat, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Headless Horseman, The V10 7C+ R
Hug, The V10-11 8A PG13
Hurley Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Huston Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indistinction T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Huge aka The Hug Left V8-9 7B+
Mantle Arete V3+ 6A+
Ms. Fanny Le Pump T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Vision T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
North Face Center T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sleepy Hollow V9-10 7C+ R
South Crack (Unknown) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thunder Road S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under The Boardwalk V12 8A+
West Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a solid slab that will be cooler than a majority of rocks in the canyon due to its shaded north-facing location. Top access is via a trail shortly west of the rock. There are a number of enticing trad crack routes, many moderate and excellent for beginning trad leaders. Cob has a number of classic climbs on it, put up in the '50s and '60s.

L->R

East Face
A. Scratch?, 12-, 1p, gear.
B. Leave it of Lead It?, 12, 1p, gear.
C. Racing The Sun?, 11 X, 1p, bolt, gear or TR.
D. Devil's Dream, 9, 1p, 70', gear.
E. Eat Left, 10- PG-13, 1p, 50', gear.
F. Eat Right, 10 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear.
G. Body Talk?, 9+, 1p, gear.
H. Othello, 10, 1p, 60', gear.

North Face
I. Ms. Fanny Le- Pump, 11, 1p, gear.
J. Indistinction, 7+, 1p, gear.
K. Right Crack, 6, 1p, gear.
L. Night Vision, 10 PG-13, 2p, gear & bolts.
M. Huston Crack, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
N. Aid Crack, 10+ R, 1p, 60', gear.
O. Face Route 11- X, 1p, 60', gear.
P. The Goat, 9, 1p, gear.
Q. East Crack, 10-, 2p, gear.
R. North Face Left, 8-, 2p, 210', gear.
S. North Face Center, 7+, 2p, 210', gear.
T. Empor, 8-, 2p, 210', gear.

Northwest bit
U. Variation, 9 R, 2p, 210', gear.
V. Northwest Corner, 8, 2p, 200', gear.
West Face
W. Hurley Direct, 10-, 2p, gear.
X. Brownies in The Basin, 9+ X, now 9+, 1-2p, bolts & gear.
Y. West Crack?, 9+, 2p, gear.
A. West Rib, 8, 2p, gear.
AA. West Dihedral, 8, 2p, gear.
BB. Upper West Face, ?
CC. Thunder Road, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
DD. Corn on the Cob, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.

Getting There

About 6.1 miles up the canyon, on the south side of Boulder Canyon there's a pullout on the left side of the road beneath the rock. It's obvious. Crossing the river can be sketchy; we found it to be easiest via some rocks that are at the east edge of the pullout. Find the trail running to the right and up to the base of the rock.
Crossing the stream requires a Tyrolean in high water. There are a few of these along the stream, one of which is very close to Cob Rock.

35 Total Climbs

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Location: Cob Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cob Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 6
Face Problem
Boulder
V8-9 7B+
 7
Left Huge aka The Hug Left
Boulder
V10-11 8A PG13
 3
The Hug
Boulder
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 459
North Face Center
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 354
Empor
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 89
Northwest Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
North Face Left
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
West Rib
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 230
Huston Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
East Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 31
Night Vision
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 24
Othello
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 99
Aid Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Ms. Fanny Le Pump
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Thunder Road
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Face Problem
 6
V3 6A Boulder
Left Huge aka The Hug Left
 7
V8-9 7B+ Boulder
The Hug
 3
V10-11 8A PG13 Boulder
North Face Center
 459
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Empor
 354
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Northwest Corner
 89
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
North Face Left
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
West Rib
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Huston Crack
 230
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
East Crack
 53
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Night Vision
 31
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Othello
 24
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Aid Crack
 99
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Ms. Fanny Le Pump
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Thunder Road
 11
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cob Rock »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Darrin Stein
Vancouver, WA
Darrin Stein   Vancouver, WA
I'm not going to comment on any one particular route. From this page, if anyone pulls the drop down for the routes, you will see all the stars listed. A GREAT crag, despite the close proximaty to the road and it being so crowded. Jan 8, 2002
The traverse has been taken down, but with the drought this year it's not necessary. There are _many_ safe rock hopping ways to get to Cob Rock right now (September 2002) Sep 30, 2002
Tried to get here on 5/30/03... Didn't happen. The traverse isn't there, and the creek is raging. Wading the creek seemed pretty much un-doable, as the water looked to be at about class II-III whitewater. This was a bummer because there was NO-ONE there... wonder why. Jun 1, 2003
Shawn Shannon
Everett, WA
Shawn Shannon   Everett, WA
Any word if a traverse across the river has been set up? Also, if there isn't one is there any alternatives to reach the rock? thanks... Jun 14, 2003
I was out here in July. Was this the traverse that the climber got pinned at the creek by a boulder? Aug 2, 2003
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
Ted Lanzano   Boulder, CO
I ran into an employee from the Department of Transportation who told me he was going to cut the rope traverse over the creek at Cob. He said the rope is attached to State property (the gaurd rail) which is against the law. I told him to wait a few days and put up a notice explaining the situation and not leave climbers stranded on the other side. He appeared to of waited because as of yesterday (8/13) the rope was still installed. In any case, he could come back and cut it and it is probably best to move the traverse back to the tree and off the gaurd rail. Aug 14, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
The tyrolean for Cob and Sherwood Forrest are no longer needed. The creek can be safely crossed in calf deep water and it's almost possible to rock hop. Aug 14, 2003
Was on the Northwest face yesterday, and it seems the big white spot in the picture where routes come together is where there is a massive 2-ton rock that is loose. I know this because I was about to set an anchor in and when I shook the TCU a little the whole damn thing moved. It's set in place well, but be aware! Cheers. brian w Sep 1, 2003
I just crossed the creek on the fraying rope near Sherwood Forest and hiked down to Cob Rock. I was disturbed to find three new bolts on the face on the top pitch of Empor, near the 5.7 alternate finish. The 3rd bolt didn't have a hanger. Anyone know who put this up?

It seems rather contrived to me to put 3 bolts in at the top of a bunch of classic 5.7's and 5.8's. I happily climb the new bolted routes in the canyon, but I think it's out of place to be bolting a 20' piece of rock that you have to climb moderate routes with gear to approach. Perhaps my opinion is colored by my long time enjoyment of this, my favorite rock in the canyon. Jun 24, 2005
Mark Griffin
Boulder, CO
Mark Griffin   Boulder, CO
Used the tyrolean today (5/3/07) and it works smashingly but just barely keeps you out of the water. Recommend dragging your packs across separately to keep them dry.

  • *EDIT: Tyrolean is fixed, nice 'n high above the creek. June 2007. Thanks to whomever did this.

Does anyone know what the bolted line just right of Hurley Direct is?
The first bolt hanger is missing, then three more bolts to a sling anchor below a nice right leaning finger/hand crack. May 3, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Yeah- Brownies In The Basin

It *WAS* 'Brownies in the Basin,' but someone retro-bolted it. May 4, 2007
Stephanovich
Boulder, CO
Stephanovich   Boulder, CO
Yahoo, Love Cob. All routes are quality!! One particular one,-I was wishing for more info of. Yesterday 6-22-07 w/ Pam Porskinak (sorry Philo I had to) I climbed up Hurley Direct (5.10- ?). Traversed into Empor (5.7ish-) and up the V-slot. From there, there are two bolts to a bolt stud. Face w/ small holds to a sloping dish (directly below the stud), I think this might be the crux (5.10+ or 5.11??). I might have made it harder, instead of using a stopper I had a maschine nut and "Lucky" bolt hanger, which I "placed" on the stud- gave it a traddier feel, clipped a draw and fell. LOL. Tim and Betheny whom I met, gave me enough motivation to do it on my second try, yet the hanger was in place at that point. I must try again, in the fashion of the first go. does any body know what it is?
Culp climbed the face years ago w/o the bolts in place, but veered off to the right joining the 5.7 splitter-like crack of Empor. I think that's so cool man.
That day I used the following gear for my attempt:
#0.5 WC Friend (on Hurley Direct), two shoulder length slings w/ crabiners for the old pitons (on Empor), two quick draws for the bolts (on the "unknown" face), "lucky" bolthanger + the nut for it and two biners, sling and locker for tree belay, 1 pitch from ground to belay tree (60m). Super fun day. Jun 23, 2007
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
A minor correction; many of the moderate classic lines were put up in the '50s (Empor and North Face Center) by the standard incredibles of that time! They had eyes for classic lines. Cob Rock is filled with them. Jun 18, 2008
I had to bail today do to thunder and lightning. I left a sling and a couple of carabiners. If you grab them could you please e-mail me at jason.lamere@gmail.com.

Thanks Jun 23, 2009
Wow- I was about to cross the highly suspect tyrolean last night over to Cob and it looked waayyy scary. Has anyone crossed this with the recent high water and lived?? Jun 15, 2010
Did "Left Huge" today... onsight.... For V9? It seemed a bit soft? It would be my 1st V9 onsight.... I was thinking it was more like V8 ish or so, but who is to say for sure? It was a cool line that suited my style, but in 20 years of climbing I've never crush a V9er like I did this one.... I wounder what others may think? Good line with good shade. Fun day on good stone. Odd more info is not available on the bouldering at "Cob Rock." Jun 23, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Luke, some info is up at my blog guide
www.bouldercanyonbouldering.blogspot.com Jun 24, 2010
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Tyrolean looks very suspect. Did not trust it, sun burned and many nicks. Water is raging as well. Jun 9, 2013
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
There is a new rappel route from the summit. It was installed to help mitigate the degradation of the standard walk off, which is in major disrepair. There are two chain anchors near the summit, basically between the top of Empor and Northwest Corner. There is another rap station on a small ledge between those two routes for a second rappel. Two raps with one 60-meter rope gets you down. Aug 1, 2013
Instead of installing a rap route over a very popular route with clusters of people trying to rap down, why not just improve the walkoff as they do in Eldo? Couple volunteers a couple days. Also the tyrolean is shit and needs more attention than the rappel. Aug 12, 2013
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Steven, there is a decent forum post going on this topic. To summarize: this is not an official trail in the eyes of the National Forest Service and getting official sanction to do such would occur on a different time scale than at Eldorado Canyon State Park. We have it so good at Eldo. Aug 13, 2013
Matt DiTullio
Boulder, Colorado
Matt DiTullio   Boulder, Colorado
Did anyone happen to find a large purple cam or medium yellow cam on Empor or North Face Center on Cob Rock in the last 2 weeks? Or is anyone planning on climbing there in the next few days? Please email me if you said yes to either of these! Thanks! Oct 25, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
So what is the 3-bolt variation up and left of the last Pitch of Empor? It goes up from the left-leaning corner, then up 5 meters of easy terrain to a 1st bolt, a more moderate moves to a second bolt, then up a few harder moves to a 3rd, hangerless bolt (swage on a stopper and rely on nerves and friction). Then up and right to an exit on harder still moves.
Maybe 5.11?
Anybody got a story on this thing? Jun 10, 2015
Erin84  
Anyone find a rather shiny 0.5 BD on Empor (but could be a belay for other routes as well?), please PM me. Thanks :) Jul 22, 2015
LOST: 70m rope - Mammut Infinity - blue - COB ROCK, Boulder Canyon.

Hello all,

I was climbing at Cob Rock yesterday (8/15/15), specifically North Face Center route, ending at 2pm. I left my rope at the base of the climb before heading out - 70m Mammut Infinity in a black Metolius rope backpack. If you managed to snag it on your way out, please give me a ring at (207)450-7212. $50 reward.

Thanks,
James Aug 16, 2015
Hey all,

Got my rope stuck on the rappel down today 6/6/16. If anyone has the heart to undo it from the horn on their rap down and return it to me, it would mean the world. My phone number is 401-864-7675. Thanks so much for considering. Jun 6, 2016

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