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Routes in Happy Hour Crag

Are We Not Men T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Are We Not Robots T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Aliens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bad Sneakers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bent Faith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Spit, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruel Shoes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementia T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Race, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grins T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Off T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I, Robot T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Call T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Laugh T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Malign T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightcap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perched-Pillar Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rush Hour T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seein' Double TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skid Row T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Teetotaler T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tipsey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twofers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Bypass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Gully T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: Chris Archer, Sarah Spaulding
Page Views: 2,029 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Jul 10, 2004 with updates from Mark E Dixon
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Edit]

This route climbs the arete right of Dementia. Great position and terrific movement are marred by a slightly contrived start on the arete. The best opening climbs straight up the arete with your chest at the bolts. It starts with the left hand in the Dementia corner for the first move or two.

Start 10 feet right of the Dementia/Malign start. Climb past 2 bolts and angle up and left to the roof at the base of the Dementia corner. Climb straight up the arete. Going straight up at the last bolt is slopey 12c (desperate in summer). Cutting right for a move at the second to last bolt and then moving back left again past the last bolt lowers the grade to easy 5.11.

Protection [Edit]

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A #2 and/or #2.5 Friend may be useful to protect the moves to the 3rd bolt.

Per Mark E Dixon: it appears that the bolts were removed and the holes were patched.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Formerly a TR problem, now leadable. Does that make these retrobolts? Jul 13, 2004
Seems like this one gets pretty close to Cheers. Jul 13, 2004
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Should have been left a TR problem. poor choice to bolt this one....

Thrill of the Chaise (AKA Cheers) is not much of a thrill anymore.

I should have had my wrench with me.... Jul 29, 2004
Chris Archer  
 
Darren, Cheers retrobolted an existing trad route. Why would you consider that a more valid route? Jul 29, 2004
Routes like this make me think all climbing areas should be regulated as in Eldo or the Flatirons. Boulder Canyon is an uninspiring mess. Aug 20, 2004
More regulated climbing? Oh yes, that's what we need. Aug 20, 2004
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Chris, Thrill of the Chaise has only two bolts in it and didn't encroach on any other route. I didn't know if it was a trad route and I don't really care. It seems like your bolts retro it even more.... Now, while climbing Thrill, instead of only having those two bolts for the route, one could also clip all of your bolts. Maybe this is why you called it Seeing Double.... Aug 20, 2004
More regulated climbing is where we're headed. It's inevitable. Theres only going to be more people climbing and more people making impacts like this route. More regulation will happen. Aug 20, 2004
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I would have to agree with the above comments. This route doubles the bolt count on any other route at the crag. The lower potion of the route is easily lead on trad gear 3ft to the left. The 3rd bolt can be clipped from Dementia. The climbing looks interesting, but it probably should not have been bolted with 8 bolts. Aug 20, 2004
A historical note, since I was involved in the FA of Cheers with Rick Leitner and Kent Lugbill. We didn't knowingly retrobolt Thrill - we had no idea that the route had ever been done. We also did not drill the anchor bolts; these were apparently added later by local guides.

A good route worth the two bolts, I think. Aug 20, 2004
TBlom
 
TBlom  
 
I've always enjoyed "Thrill". I had no idea it was a trad route, but I usually augment the route with a few cams (it's pretty exciting if you only bring quickdraws). This new route seems a bit close to "Thrill", kind of like some of the grid bolting at Sport Park. I've noticed that most of the bolts at Happy Hour see very little traffic, as most people there choose to do the trad routes instead. I will most likely enjoy the route, all the same. Aug 21, 2004
Beware any route that says 11a or 12c. Sep 7, 2004
TBlom
 
TBlom  
 
Tried to toprope this line and kept running into holds on "Thrill of the Chaise". I wonder how many ascents a year this route sees. Bolts 2.5 feet away diagonally from bolts on "Thrill" kind of just cluttered up a good trad/mixed area. Can't wait to lead Dementia with some bolts clipped though. Jun 20, 2005
I guess I have not been up here in a while.

Sorry Chris, I gotta say I think this is a poorly considered addition to the cliff. Jun 26, 2007
Don't be sorry, Steve, it's Bolted Canyon. Jan 13, 2010
Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
Just climbed Dementia for the first time today and was wondering why all these bolts where within reach? Total squeeze job! Oct 7, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
This is fun, but it feels almost impossible in the 2nd to last bolt area. The old Rolofson guide calls this section 13a. Mar 15, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Direct at 2nd to last bolt is balancy but not 5.12, or at least not hard 5.12 if you have a good wingspan.
I still don't like the idea that this got bolted. It was always a nice TR, now it's a squeeze job with bolts clip-able from previously existing routes. Mar 8, 2015
FYI, as of 3/31/15 all the bolts on this climb are gone. They were there about a month ago. Anyone know what happened to them? Apr 1, 2015

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