Elevation: 6,874 ft
GPS: 40.003, -105.394 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 103,417 total · 431/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

Happy Hour Crag is a south-facing wall that keeps the sun for a long time. There are a number of pleasant moderates on this quite high friction rock. Unfortunately, not all of the routes are able to take advantage of that rock quality. Some of the routes are nothing to write home about. That doesn't mean you should write off the rock; there's a number of cool routes, mostly in the middle of the rock. The crag is 70-120 feet high. It can get quite popular after work or on weekends.

L->R these appear to be:

A. Left Side, 5, 1p, 50', gear.

BA. Variation??, 8, 1p, gear.

B. I, Robot, 7, 1p, gear.

C. Are We Not Robots, 7, 80' gear.

D. Are We Not Men, 7, 1p, gear.

E1. Twofers, 8-, 1p, gear.

E2. Twofers Bypass, 8-, 1p, gear.

F? Twofers Gully, 5, 1p, gear.

G? The Big Spit, 9, 1p, gear.

H. Rush Hour, 11+, 1p, gear? bolts?

I. Last Call, 9+, 1p, gear.

J1. Dementia, 9+/10-, 1p, gear.

J2. Seeing Double, 10+, 1p, bolts (which may be gone) & gear.

J3. Cheers aka Thrill Of The Chaise, 10-, 1p, bolts & gear.

J4. Tipsey, 9, 1p, gear.

J5. Malign, 7, 1p, gear.

K. Perched-Pillar Pile, 9, 1p, 95', gear.

L. Nightcap, 9-, 1p, gear.

M. Skid Row, 9+, 1p, gear.

N. Unknown, ?, 1p, gear & bolts.

O1. Last Laugh, 11-, 1p, 100', gear.

O2. Grins, 8-, 1p, 100', gear.

O3 or P. Teetotaler, 11-, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.

Q1. Hands Off, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.

Q2. The Great Race, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.

Q3. Baby Aliens, 12-, 1p, 60', gear.

Q4. Bad Sneakers, 9+, 1p, gear.

Q5. Cruel Shoes, 9, 1p, gear.

Below & right

R. Bent Faith, 8- R, 1p, gear.

Getting There

Pass Cob Rock on the left at 6.6 miles. 100 yards further is a pull-off on the right for Blob Rock. 100 yards further there is a pull-off on the left side of the road (at 6.8 miles). Park, cross the road, and find a steep trail that heads directly up towards the rock. Take the left branch at trail forks; the right branch heads up to Security Risk.

Hiking time is about 10-15 minutes to the crag.

An easy path leads up around the left (west) side to the top of the rock; this is also used to descend from routes that don't have bolt anchors.

Column near Malign & Cheers dangerously loose!

Per Shadrock: climbing Cheers 9/12/20, which shares about 50 feet with Malign, I came upon a very loose, toaster-oven-sized block at the top of the offwidth column/tooth thing on Malign (immediately right of the first bolt on Cheers). No one was around, the road was empty, so decided to trundle the block. As I started levering it out, the ENTIRE column began to shift slightly. I left the loose block in place, put a chalk X on it, and stuck around to inform later parties that the block was loose. Not really sure what to do at this point: it was pretty creepy, but it's possible that column has always been loose and it's only the levering at the very tip of it that causes the shift.

Cell Phone Coverager

FWIW, Verizon's cell phone covers does reach this crag. The service is a bit iffy.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Happy Hour Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 151
Malign
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 245
Twofers
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 72
Twofers Bypass
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 319
Grins
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 230
Nightcap
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
The Big Spit
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 53
Last Call
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 261
Dementia
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 109
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
The Great Race
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Last Laugh
Trad, Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 35
Teetotaler
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 27
Rush Hour
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Malign
 151
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Twofers
 245
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Twofers Bypass
 72
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Grins
 319
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Nightcap
 230
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Big Spit
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Last Call
 53
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Dementia
 261
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Cheers aka Thrill of the Ch…
 109
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
The Great Race
 23
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Last Laugh
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport, TR
Teetotaler
 35
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Rush Hour
 27
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Happy Hour Crag »

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