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Routes in Happy Hour Crag

Are We Not Men T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Are We Not Robots T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Aliens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bad Sneakers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bent Faith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Spit, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruel Shoes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementia T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Race, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grins T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Off T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I, Robot T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Call T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Laugh T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Malign T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightcap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perched-Pillar Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rush Hour T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seein' Double TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skid Row T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Teetotaler T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tipsey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twofers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Bypass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Gully T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Elevation: 6,874 ft
GPS: 40.003, -105.394 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 69,442 total, 336/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Happy Hour Crag is a south-facing wall that keeps the sun for a long time. There are a number of pleasant moderates on this quite high friction rock. Unfortunately, not all of the routes are able to take advantage of that rock quality. Some of the routes are nothing to write home about. That doesn't mean you should write off the rock; there's a number of cool routes, mostly in the middle of the rock. The crag is 70-120 feet high. It can get quite popular after work or on weekends.

L->R these appear to be:

A. Left Side, 5, 1p, 50', gear.
BA. Variation??, 8, 1p, gear.
B. I, Robot, 7, 1p, gear.
C. Are We Not Robots, 7, 80' gear.
D. Are We Not Men, 7, 1p, gear.
E1. Twofers, 8-, 1p, gear.
E2. Twofers Bypass, 8-, 1p, gear.
F? Twofers Gully, 5, 1p, gear.
G? The Big Spit, 9, 1p, gear.
H. Rush Hour, 11+, 1p, gear? bolts?
I. Last Call, 9+, 1p, gear.
J1. Dementia, 9+/10-, 1p, gear.
J2. Seeing Double, 10+, 1p, bolts (which may be gone) & gear.
J3. Cheers aka Thrill Of The Chaise, 10-, 1p, bolts & gear.
J4. Tipsey, 9, 1p, gear.
J5. Malign, 7, 1p, gear.
K. [[113743374], 9, 1p, 95', gear.
L. Nightcap, 9-, 1p, gear.
M. Skid Row, 9+, 1p, gear.
N. Unknown, ?, 1p, gear & bolts.
O1. Last Laugh, 11-, 1p, 100', gear.
O2. Grins, 8-, 1p, 100', gear.
O3 or P. Teetotaler, 11-, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
Q1. Hands Off, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
Q2. The Great Race, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
Q3. Baby Aliens, 12-, 1p, 60', gear.
Q4. Bad Sneakers, 9+, 1p, gear.
Q5. Cruel Shoes, 9, 1p, gear.

Below & right

R. Bent Faith, 8- R, 1p, gear.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Pass Cob Rock on the left at 6.6 miles. 100 yards further is a pull-off on the right for Blob Rock. 100 yards further there is a pull-off on the left side of the road (at 6.8 miles). Park, cross the road, and find a steep trail that heads directly up towards the rock. Take the left branch at trail forks; the right branch heads up to Security Risk.

Hiking time is about 10-15 minutes to the crag.

An easy path leads up around the left (west) side to the top of the rock; this is also used to descend from routes that don't have bolt anchors.

Cell Phone Coverager

FWIW, Verizon's cell phone covers does reach this crag. The service is a bit iffy.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Happy Hour Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Malign
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Bypass
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grins
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nightcap
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Big Spit
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tipsey
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Call
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dementia
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Laugh
Trad, Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Malign 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Twofers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Twofers Bypass 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Grins 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Nightcap 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Big Spit 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tipsey 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Last Call 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Dementia 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Cheers aka Thrill of the Ch… 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Last Laugh 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Happy Hour Crag »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
My friend and I went climbing at this wall yesterday. We had fun, it was nice that we could set up a top rope on these hard climbs. There were some holds that had chalk marks on them, I think they were marking the holds that were loose. I put more marks on a lot of other holds that I think are going easy to break soon. Watch out, there are lots of holds that are loose at this wall, hopefully other people will mark with chalk all of the loose holds so people don't get hurt. Jun 13, 2014
Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
Seein' Double @ Farkas.time Jun 30, 2013
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
Does anybody know what the bolted route is just to the right of Dementia and to the left of Cheers? It follows the left-facing arete/flake making the giant overhanging V-slot finger crack of Dementia. I've topped it a couple times now and it feels much harder than Cheers to me.

Thanks! Jun 30, 2013
I found a nice pair of kid's climbing shoes at the base of Happy Hour Crag this afternoon. Let me know if they're yours ... clintonmckinzie@gmail.com. May 5, 2013
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
Lizzy Scully   Lyons, Colorado
I found out the route is 12b, though I don't know the name. It seems an accurate grading. It's a fun route. Jul 16, 2011
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
Lizzy Scully   Lyons, Colorado
Nope. It's to the right of that climb, just left of that one-move wonder 11a with a couple bolts. It's on a gently overhanging wall. Jul 9, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
To the right of Last Laugh or to the right of Last Call? Do you mean this one ('Rush Hour'): ???
5.11+ if you are tall, harder if you are short. Jun 27, 2011
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
Lizzy Scully   Lyons, Colorado
Does anyone know the name/rating of the steep, bolted line just right of Last Laugh? It feels like 5.12b, but it's not in the book or on MP. Jun 27, 2011
Thanks to whomever took the trouble to clean the spray paint vandalism at Happy Hour on Sunday - I don't know if they succeeded in getting it off with the bucket of soapy water - but perhaps using a solution of ethanol might work. Jun 6, 2006
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
FYI: a thread has been started regarding the defacement at mountainproject.com/v/color…. May 31, 2006
The peace signs were there on Saturday, May 20th. They look really bad! Does anyone know how to get the paint off without damaging the rock? Happy Hour is one of my favorite rocks and I hate to see it damaged like that. If someone has experience getting paint off of rock, please let me know. Is paint thinner the best way to get this off? May 30, 2006
Gusana  
WTF--someone has spray painted two large peace signs up high on
Happy Hour crag (just right of Dementia)! Who thought this was a good idea?? May 25, 2006
If these peace-niks on rappel had cajones, they would paint the modified Mercedes symbol on the Pentagon. Instead, the individual(s) have created a trite gesture of vandalism that is utterly devoid of meaning. Good job, kids. May 25, 2006
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Check out the Peace Train . May 24, 2006
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
They were not there eight days ago. This is very disappointing news. May 23, 2006
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Anybody know when the 2 big peace symbols were painted on Happy Hour? We drove past there today and I think they are in the Cheers vicinity and are probably 6-8 feet in diameter. Very obvious from the road. Makes you want to wring a few necks. May 22, 2006
Really enjoyed this rock. The guides claim there are some bolts at the top left usually listed as route 3, but I couldn't find any. Also don't get upset with us newbies who are TRing. Those of you aid climb and get there after we are aleady in the process of setting up, just ask if you can climb a route first. People like me realize that you are going to tie up a route a lot less than TRing. Jul 3, 2003
In early June, Ron Olsen and I replaced all the rappel/lower hardware in the fixed anchors on this crag with 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links. In the process, we removed all smash (lap) links; the ones on the anchor of Grins were especially bad most likely due to the not-recommended practice of belaying and lowering directly through the anchors.

This effort was part of the American Safe Climbing Associations (ASCA - safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchors Campaign. They could use your support! Jun 27, 2003
I really love Happy Hour as a great place for after work climbing. I'm getting a little concerned, however, about the profusion of trails beneath the crag. Perhaps the Access Fund could continue its fine work in the area by establishing an "official" trail to the crag. In the meantime, I might suggest that folks stick to the slab approach across from the parking area that climbs directly up to the crag. This will minimize erosion on the hillside. Jul 3, 2002
Jon - you're not kidding. I would avoid this rock at all costs during the weekends. We were short on time and went a couple of Sundays ago in hopes of doing a few quick routes. Major mistake. My girlfriend was climbing Last Laugh and almost had a rope thrown down on her by someone wanting to top-rope a 5.8 close by. We left after one route. This crag has become a mecca for beginner climbers looking for quality top ropes. Unfortunately, not all of them are too climbing savvy yet and are a bit lacking when it comes to basic etiquette (i.e. don't throw ropes on people).When I was at the anchor, there was so much yelling and confusion amongst the beginners that I thought someone was going to fall off. For a better and less crowded area, deal with the heat and try security risk.

Aside from the crowds, happy hour is a great place for some after work and quick routes. I've had great luck in early season. Jul 1, 2002
This place can get crowded on the weekends in the summer! If you go mid-week, you can usually have your choice of routes. Also, its a good place to go to introduce people to outdoor climbing... Feb 1, 2002

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