Happy Hour Crag Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.003, -105.394 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Happy Hour Crag is a south-facing wall that keeps the sun for a long time. There are a number of pleasant moderates on this quite high friction rock. Unfortunately, not all of the routes are able to take advantage of that rock quality. Some of the routes are nothing to write home about. That doesn't mean you should write off the rock; there's a number of cool routes, mostly in the middle of the rock. The crag is 70-120 feet high. It can get quite popular after work or on weekends.
L->R these appear to be:
A. Left Side, 5, 1p, 50', gear.
BA. Variation??, 8, 1p, gear.
B. I, Robot, 7, 1p, gear.
C. Are We Not Robots, 7, 80' gear.
D. Are We Not Men, 7, 1p, gear.
E1. Twofers, 8-, 1p, gear.
E2. Twofers Bypass, 8-, 1p, gear.
F? Twofers Gully, 5, 1p, gear.
G? The Big Spit, 9, 1p, gear.
H. Rush Hour, 11+, 1p, gear? bolts?
I. Last Call, 9+, 1p, gear.
J1. Dementia, 9+/10-, 1p, gear.
J2. Seeing Double, 10+, 1p, bolts (which may be gone) & gear.
J3. Cheers aka Thrill Of The Chaise, 10-, 1p, bolts & gear.
J4. Tipsey, 9, 1p, gear.
J5. Malign, 7, 1p, gear.
K. Perched-Pillar Pile, 9, 1p, 95', gear.
L. Nightcap, 9-, 1p, gear.
M. Skid Row, 9+, 1p, gear.
N. Unknown, ?, 1p, gear & bolts.
O1. Last Laugh, 11-, 1p, 100', gear.
O2. Grins, 8-, 1p, 100', gear.
O3 or P. Teetotaler, 11-, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
Q1. Hands Off, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
Q2. The Great Race, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
Q3. Baby Aliens, 12-, 1p, 60', gear.
Q4. Bad Sneakers, 9+, 1p, gear.
Q5. Cruel Shoes, 9, 1p, gear.
Below & right
R. Bent Faith, 8- R, 1p, gear.
Hiking time is about 10-15 minutes to the crag.
An easy path leads up around the left (west) side to the top of the rock; this is also used to descend from routes that don't have bolt anchors.
Column near Malign & Cheers dangerously loose!
Per Shadrock: climbing Cheers 9/12/20, which shares about 50 feet with Malign, I came upon a very loose, toaster-oven-sized block at the top of the offwidth column/tooth thing on Malign (immediately right of the first bolt on Cheers). No one was around, the road was empty, so decided to trundle the block. As I started levering it out, the ENTIRE column began to shift slightly. I left the loose block in place, put a chalk X on it, and stuck around to inform later parties that the block was loose. Not really sure what to do at this point: it was pretty creepy, but it's possible that column has always been loose and it's only the levering at the very tip of it that causes the shift.
Classic Climbing Routes at Happy Hour Crag
Days w Precip