Type: Trad, 165 ft, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: George Hurley, Bob Culp, 1966.
Page Views: 10,075 total · 44/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Find this climb at the upper end of the West Ridge in a stretch where the trail levels out. It is characterized by a small buttress with a bulge and a crack going up to a break with a tree with slings about 65 feet up. It lies West of Xanadu and East of Knight's Move.

P1. About 65 feet. Starts with delicate face moves and 15 feet up is crux, getting into fingerlock and transfering into this crack system. Crack is perfect for stoppers and has great fingerlocks for 20 feet and then goes to tight hands and perfect hands for the final 30 feet. Chockstone kicked my ass last month but I flashed it twice today...got my revenge. Note that there is typically a tat anchor at the top of this pitch.

P2 The second pitch continues up a thin face with occasional opportunities for small wires for pro. An awkward traversing/mantle/arete move leads to the second belay at two bolts. The second pitch (9+s the s is for sandbag as quoted from the new Eldo book) might seem a bit harder that the first....

P3 Third pitch consists of easy climbing to walk down gully. Continue 10' up broken rock from the second belay to a nice vertical 15-20' finger crack in a right facing corner. This would be quite hard if stems weren't available on the right, but as it is it's probably 5.8. Past this things really easy off - continue up to a large tree with slings and rap rings.

Rappel from here back down to the Purple Haze rap tree or take the walk-off ledge to the left...per Jason Wells.

Protection

Standard rack with extra hand pieces. You can toprope, but must lead one of 2 5.7 pitches to set up toprope.

Photos