Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
|
A Cut Above T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Android Tilt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
As We Liked It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Bat, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Between the Cracks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Blackout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Born Under Punches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Chock Suey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Chockstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Cornerstone TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Fade To Black T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Fading Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Friends in High Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Ice Nine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Jeep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Jericho T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Joke Crack to Superstone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Knight's Move T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Laughing at the Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Ministry of Fear T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
|
|
Modern Defense T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
|
|
Muscular Dystrophy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Prince of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Purple Haze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Red House T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
S&M T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Sirens of Titan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Speakeasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Superstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Sylvia's Bush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Tales of Ulysses T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Tilt Right T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Whiplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: |
Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 3 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | George Hurley, Bob Culp, 1966. FFA: Jim Erickson, Jim Walsh, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 13,553 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Find this climb at the upper end of the West Ridge in a stretch where the trail levels out. It is characterized by a small buttress with a bulge and a crack going up to a break with a tree with slings about 65 feet up. It lies West of Xanadu and East of Knight's Move.
P1. About 65 feet. Starts with delicate face moves and 15 feet up is crux, getting into fingerlock and transfering into this crack system. Crack is perfect for stoppers and has great fingerlocks for 20 feet and then goes to tight hands and perfect hands for the final 30 feet. Chockstone kicked my ass last month but I flashed it twice today...got my revenge. Note that there is typically a tat anchor at the top of this pitch.
P2 The second pitch continues up a thin face with occasional opportunities for small wires for pro. An awkward traversing/mantle/arete move leads to the second belay at two bolts. The second pitch (9+s the s is for sandbag as quoted from the new Eldo book) might seem a bit harder that the first....
P3 Third pitch consists of easy climbing to walk down gully. Continue 10' up broken rock from the second belay to a nice vertical 15-20' finger crack in a right facing corner. This would be quite hard if stems weren't available on the right, but as it is it's probably 5.8. Past this things really easy off - continue up to a large tree with slings and rap rings.
Rappel from here back down to the Purple Haze rap tree or take the walk-off ledge to the left...per Jason Wells.
P1. About 65 feet. Starts with delicate face moves and 15 feet up is crux, getting into fingerlock and transfering into this crack system. Crack is perfect for stoppers and has great fingerlocks for 20 feet and then goes to tight hands and perfect hands for the final 30 feet. Chockstone kicked my ass last month but I flashed it twice today...got my revenge. Note that there is typically a tat anchor at the top of this pitch.
P2 The second pitch continues up a thin face with occasional opportunities for small wires for pro. An awkward traversing/mantle/arete move leads to the second belay at two bolts. The second pitch (9+s the s is for sandbag as quoted from the new Eldo book) might seem a bit harder that the first....
P3 Third pitch consists of easy climbing to walk down gully. Continue 10' up broken rock from the second belay to a nice vertical 15-20' finger crack in a right facing corner. This would be quite hard if stems weren't available on the right, but as it is it's probably 5.8. Past this things really easy off - continue up to a large tree with slings and rap rings.
Rappel from here back down to the Purple Haze rap tree or take the walk-off ledge to the left...per Jason Wells.
57 Comments