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Routes in Cathedral Peak

John Muir Route (The Mountaineer's Route) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13
Panic Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Southeast Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 10,911 ft
GPS: 37.848, -119.405 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 112,997 total, 810/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jun 22, 2006 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

One of the most stunning peaks in Yosemite, Cathedral is blessed with some great moderate climbing. The approach takes about an hour and is long enough from the road and hiking trails to give you a little peace (often to be shared with many climbers - start early).

The summit is a small block big enough for a couple people to squeeze on. Their might be bolts on the top, but usually not. Downclimbing off the summit block can be scary, but John Muir did it in 1869, so you can too.

It's a great big lightning rod - get off ASAP if thunder comes your way. Other than descending, escaping up and right is the usually possible until you get to talus.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

From the Cathedral Lakes trailhead, take the main trail for 10 minutes. Soon after a set of stone steps look, look for a major climbers trail branching left (see photo). Do not get suckered into an earlier, smaller path that follows the stream. Keep on the trail until it fades away near the base Cathedral Peak. Pick the easiest path to the lowest point of the southeast buttress.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cathedral Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13
John Muir Route (The Mountaineer's Ro…
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Southeast Buttress
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Panic Pillar
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
John Muir Route (The Mounta… 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13 Trad, Alpine
Southeast Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Panic Pillar 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Cathedral Peak »

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Photos

Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
Did this route July 2nd, 2016 (my 31st bday) and heard large groups at a belay up top about bailing because of coming storms. I don't think they ended up bailing but did leave 2 cams and other gear at belay ledge. Describe the belay ledge, cams and gear, including what you used to mark, my favorite beer I will be getting and I'll send you gear back. If no one responds I guess I got new gear for my birthday along with a great top out. Jul 5, 2016
ARMoss  
We spent ~30 minutes thinking we'd either missed our turn off the Cathedral Lakes Trail or hadn't gone far enough. General consensus at the base of the cliff was that the approach description was misleading. In case you don't have service to click on the links below, our opinion is that a better description of the approach would be:

From the Cathedral Lakes trailhead, take the main trail for 10 minutes. Soon after a set of stone steps look, look for a major climbers trail branching left. Follow this trail, continuing up the valley and out onto slabs, watching for cairns to mark the way. After ~1.5 miles, you will see the trail split. Do not get suckered into the smaller path that follows the stream. Keep on the trail until it fades away near the base Cathedral Peak. Pick the easiest path to the lowest point of the southeast buttress. Sep 1, 2015
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
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ChloeB  
Someone dropped a pair of prescription sunglasses on me here while climbing 6/27. Email me what kind they are and I'll return them to you! bartraca@mail.uc.edu Jul 23, 2015
Damienn
nevada city, ca
Damienn   nevada city, ca
I found someone's approach show up there the other day. It's only the right shoe. I meant to drop it at the trailhead but brought it home with me by accident. If it's yours let me know and I can get it back to you Jun 26, 2015
Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
The climbers route Beta in the Tulumnoe free climbs guide book ( supertopo.com/packs/tuolfre… ) is pretty off. We were hiking in pre-sunrise and using that book as beta for the approach and got pretty lost. The actual climbers trail has been uploaded by me to wikiloc.com.

wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do…

Also some descent beta since I couldn't find visuals anywhere.
wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do… Oct 17, 2014
Jonathan hudson
baltimore, MD
Jonathan hudson   baltimore, MD
GPS cords for the bud lake trailhead. Lat 37º 52' 10"N, Long 119º 23' 12"W Aug 25, 2013

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