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Routes in North Buttress of Cathedral

Beer Gut T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Double Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Garden Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Grand Central T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hops'n'Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Metal Pecker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Muscle Fat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Party of Two T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pedestal Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
STD T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Slab Time T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab Time Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Small Arch Left Side TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Lance "Milo" Cagle and Mike Bizon
Page Views: 218 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Aug 18, 2015 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details


Start: Scramble 50' or so up the easy slabs and belay off gear in a small right-facing flake-corner.

P. 1: Easy slabs with little protection, up to a bolted anchor on top of a flake. 5.3, 200'.

P. 2: Friction up and left into the large right-facing corner. Follow this to a ledge with a bolted anchor. This is a fun pitch and way easier than it looks from below. 5.6,160'.

P. 3: Climb up the steeper wall directly above the belay, stepping first a bit left and then back right, to join a smaller right-arching corner and crack system. Follow the crack until it fades out, at the base of a field of big knobs. Climb the knobs (not hard, but no protection to speak of) up and a bit left to a ledge and bolted anchor. 5.7-, 170'.

Rappel the route with two ropes. The crack system continues up through the summit visor, but the rock quality deteriorates a bit.

A quality route. Rated 5.8 in the Falkenstein guide; we thought it was more like 5.7-, though thought-provokimg in spots.


Follow the JMT to where the North Buttress slab is obvious just a few yards left of the trail. Head left about a hundred yards to low-angled slabs. The most distinctive feature of the route is a large right-facing, right-leaning corner that forms the second pitch. The third pitch ends under the large, obvious summit visor; the route does not summit the formation.


Standard rack to 3" including some thin cams. Two ropes for the rappels. Belay/rap anchors are bolted.