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Routes in North Buttress of Cathedral

Beer Gut T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Double Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Garden Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Grand Central T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hops'n'Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Metal Pecker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Muscle Fat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Party of Two T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pedestal Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
STD T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Slab Time T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab Time Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Small Arch Left Side TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Philip Matena, Vlada Matena (2014)
Page Views: 551 total, 21/month
Shared By: Vlada Matena on Sep 7, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The route starts in a crack at the upper end of a large left-facing dihedral 50 feet right of the toe of the buttress.

Pitch 1 (5.5) 170 ft. cams 1 ea 1-3". Two bolt anchor with rappel rings.

Pitch 2 (5.6 PG) 180 feet. Climb past 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel rings. This pitch is high quality 5.6 friction climbing. It may feel a little bit run out between the bolts to a 5.6 leader new to Tuolumne slab climbing. This pitch was originally rated at 5.7 but several climbers who repeated the route found an easier line between the bolts that is no harder than 5.6.

Location

GPS N37.86251 W119.40011.

Protection

Cams on pitch 1, bolts on pitch 2. All bolts including the belay anchors are 3/8" stainless steel.
Vlada Matena  
 
I replaced the damaged hanger on Sep 16, 2017. Sep 18, 2017
The last bolt hanger on the second pitch was damaged by rockfall..unable to clip. It still seemed PG to me. Sep 5, 2017
Ben Townsend  
 
A beautiful climb, probably on the easier end of 5.7. The second pitch is safely bolted, but definitely thoughtful. It's possible to get a couple of small but solid pieces both before the first bolt and up higher. Jul 27, 2016