Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North Buttress of Cathedral

Beer Gut T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Double Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Garden Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Grand Central T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hops'n'Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Metal Pecker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Muscle Fat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Party of Two T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pedestal Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
STD T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Slab Time T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab Time Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Small Arch Left Side TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Alan Rees, Ben Townsend, Dorcas Miller, 2009
Page Views: 184 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Scramble as high as comfortable on the easy slab and establish a gear belay.

P. 1: Wander up easy slabs with little pro to a small ledge just left of the downward-facing point. Gear belay. 5.3, 200'.

P. 2: Follow the arching corner up and left to an obvious wide crack that breaks through a short headwall. Up this (crux) to double cracks on the lower-angled slabs above. Gear belay; if you stretch out the rope, there's a small stance with a decent crack (and you can probably finish in one more pitch instead of two), but you won't be able to see your partner on the crux. 5.7, 100-200'.

P. 3: Follow the double cracks up to the ledge and bolted anchor at the top of Beer Gut. 5.4, 100-200+' (depending where you ended the second pitch). The gear is a bit spaced and thoughtful, but OK.

Rappel Beer Gut with two ropes. You won't be able to see the station at the bottom of the first rappel until you're some distance down.

A quality, moderate line. The wide crack section is short, and pretty reasonable.

Location

Same start as Family Flake, about 100' left of Beer Gut and directly below where a left-facing corner (on the left) and a right-facing corner (on the right) converge to form a downward-facing point.

Protection

Standard rack plus cams to 5"; extra thin cams or Tricams are nice. Two ropes for the rappel down Beer Gut. The only fixed gear is the anchor at the top (shared with Beer Gut).

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments