Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Alan Rees, Ben Townsend, Dorcas Miller, 2009
Page Views: 337 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


Scramble as high as comfortable on the easy slab and establish a gear belay.

P. 1: Wander up easy slabs with little pro to a small ledge just left of the downward-facing point. Gear belay. 5.3, 200'.

P. 2: Follow the arching corner up and left to an obvious wide crack that breaks through a short headwall. Up this (crux) to double cracks on the lower-angled slabs above. Gear belay; if you stretch out the rope, there's a small stance with a decent crack (and you can probably finish in one more pitch instead of two), but you won't be able to see your partner on the crux. 5.7, 100-200'.

P. 3: Follow the double cracks up to the ledge and bolted anchor at the top of Beer Gut. 5.4, 100-200+' (depending where you ended the second pitch). The gear is a bit spaced and thoughtful, but OK.

Rappel Beer Gut with two ropes. You won't be able to see the station at the bottom of the first rappel until you're some distance down.

A quality, moderate line. The wide crack section is short, and pretty reasonable.


Same start as Family Flake, about 100' left of Beer Gut and directly below where a left-facing corner (on the left) and a right-facing corner (on the right) converge to form a downward-facing point.


Standard rack plus cams to 5"; extra thin cams or Tricams are nice. Two ropes for the rappel down Beer Gut. The only fixed gear is the anchor at the top (shared with Beer Gut).


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