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Routes in North Buttress of Cathedral

Beer Gut T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Double Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Garden Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Grand Central T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hops'n'Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Metal Pecker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Muscle Fat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Party of Two T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pedestal Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
STD T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Slab Time T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab Time Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Small Arch Left Side TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Philip Matena, Vlada Matena, Tom Rogers (2014)
Page Views: 657 total, 24/month
Shared By: Vlada Matena on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details


The route starts in a small depression 400 feet left of the toe of the Buttress and 200 feet above and to the left of a large crack that runs diagonally left and up the North Buttress. There is a discolored rock pattern on the right side of the depression, and a short crack runs up the face through the back of the depression.

The first pitch goes up the face a few feet to the left of the crack. The second pitch follows the flakes to the right and ends on top of a pedestal.

Pitch 1 (5.7) 140 feet. 5 bolts and an optional 1-2" cams in horizontal cracks to protect climbing before the first bolt.

Pitch 2 (5.4) 80 feet. Cams: 1 each 1.25-3”. Optional extra 2”.

Descend: Two 60 meter ropes are required to rappel. A single rappel with two 60m ropes from the pitch 2 anchor leads to a short third-class walk-off to the ground. It is possible to rappel with a single 70m rope using 2 rappels.

GPS N37.86229 W119.39870.
Ben Townsend  
Nice climbing, with bolts nearby at the hard bits. Careful rappelling with a single 70 -- it gets you to reasonable downclimbing, not necessarily to the ground. Jul 27, 2016