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Routes in North Buttress

Beer Gut T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Double Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Family Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Garden Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Grand Central T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hops'n'Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Metal Pecker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Muscle Fat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Party of Two T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pedestal Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
STD T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Slab Time T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab Time Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Small Arch Left Side TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 280 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Philip Matena (2014)
Page Views: 463 total · 12/month
Shared By: Vlada Matena on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


Family Flake shares the first pitch and a part of its second pitch with Muscle Fat. Where Muscle Fat departs from the flake and turns right to follow a diagonal crack, Family Flake continues climbing up the flake and then traverses left to the anchors of Metal Pecker.

Pitch 1 (5.3 PG). Scramble up low 5th class slabs to a gear belay (small cams) beneath the bottom of the right side crack below the Small Arch.

Pitch 2 (5.6). The flake is 5.5 but save one 2” cam to place as the last pro before the 5.6 traverse to the belay station (shared with Metal Pecker). The traverse is on an easy slab with knobs but it takes no pro.

Descend: 240 feet. Two 60 meter ropes required plus short third class walk-off.


The route starts 200 feet left of the toe of the Buttress.

GPS: GPS N37.86256 W119.39920.


Gear to 3 inches.



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